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S07.E09: All Inclusive


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This was an interesting challenge, I liked it and didn’t hate anybody’s design. I kind of wanted Irina to go just for being a bitch about hogging the sewing machine. 

It was fair for Sean to go though, the judge had a point about the strap under the armpit being uncomfortable. But Anthony’s coat was already done before, so that was a good point too for him getting voted off. Guess Alyssa’s opinion didn’t matter on this one. I knew they wouldn’t vote off Dmitri because, well, he’s Dmitri. 

I liked Biddel’s even though his model looked like he was having a hard time walking in those heels Biddel was so excited about. 

Edited by Straycat80
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Anthony Ryan’s model Merica was someone to emulate. She knows who she is and her family and friends know, but she won’t correct people about her pronoun if they don’t mean to be offensive.  Substitute your favorite seasonal greeting (or any other well-intended comments) for “her pronoun” and everyone is happier. 

I am confused about the sewing machine issue. Christine was saying it was “her machine”. Why did she have to use that particular machine? It looked like several had black thread. 

I think guest judge Asia had the best comment about Sean’s look when they commented about not knowing what season to wear it in.

and why was Alyssa so peeved at Anthony Ryan’s repetitive look when she’s never dinged anyone else for the same before. It seems like that shop has sailed.

Edited by hoosiermommy
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2 minutes ago, Thumper said:

Is Alyssa a judge?  What are her qualifications?  At least Heidi was a model and works in the industry.

Her qualifications are better than the guest judges. They are the worst but at least Alyssa has been doing it for awhile and has learned from that.  

I love Sean’s work and he’s one of the nicer designers but it wasn’t “edgy” enough for the judges. Anthony Ryan’s was the same as last week so he should have gotten a low score for that.  

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Irina made the same oversized jacket/coat she's made several times this season and it didn't even get a mention. 

Why does "gender neutral" mean "masculine" to the designers? Why can't non-binary folk look pretty? Maybe because they threw in "streetwear" as part of the challenge. That was an edgy concept at one time, but now, yawn... I would have liked to see a skirt or cute dress instead of all the oversized coats. The judges didn't even seem to look at what was underneath most of them.

I guess this episode was better than last week's, during which I decided to walk my dog instead of hanging in there for the judging after the runway because the runway was so abysmal. I had fairly high expectations for this season since it was international all-stars, but it has pretty much sucked. All-Stars has always been subpar to the regular PR, but this has been rather painful. And now that Heidi and Tim have fled the mother ship, maybe it's time to let both of the shows go.

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Re: Irina, while I think it’s lousy to occupy a machine for fun work when someone is clearly waiting for it for real work, I have some questions about process. Irina points out many machines have black thread, but the others call the machines “theirs”. 

Do they have other tension settings, etc? 

Michelle pointed out her stuff was near that machine - is that an unofficial claim like a beach towel on a chair?

What happens if you need both dark thread and light thread- do you get two machines? (since it’s my understanding that they are tedious and time consuming to thread)

Why couldn’t they just kick her off? 

Also, in the talking head, I believe Irina called the others petty?!? Wow, that’s some sense of entitlement

Edited by Cerulean
Realize from another post that Irina called them “petty”, rather than “rude”
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Why do they keep giving Michelle a pass?  It's so frustrating.  I was glad Christina won; I really liked her look.   Irina called them "petty".  Girl, please.  I've heard the designers call the machines "theirs" in previous seasons.  I'm not sure if it has to do with tension settings and thread color or maybe it's a possessive thing where if you've used one machine all season then you want that machine because you're comfortable there.  Comfort equals doing your best work.  I thought Sean's look was nice, but I did agree with guest judge about it chafing under the arm.  I agree with some others that this hasn't been the best season, but I'm addicted so I'll keep watching as long as they keep making them.

Edited by zoltana
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1 hour ago, Ashforth said:

Why does "gender neutral" mean "masculine" to the designers? Why can't non-binary folk look pretty? 

I'd switch out "attractive" for "pretty", but totally agree otherwise. 

Still love Michelle.

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So Michelle sends down the runway another shapeless sack, albeit one "bedazzled" with floral prints and the viscera from a crime scene, and gets praise again?  And Anthony Ryan gets singled out for repetition?  M'kay.

Mind you, his was a repeat, but Michelle's been doing the same look all season!

I didn't really like any of the looks this week, but I do agree with whichever designer it was who said gender neutral doesn't mean without sex appeal.  So, for me, the judging was, yet again, wack.  I would've given the win, too, to Christina.  Though shapeless, she had some sex appeal going on with the split in the top and it was, overall, an okay looking design.  But, rounding out the top three for me would've been Dmitry and Sean, because both had some sex appeal in their designs, fit the gender neutral remit, and weren't the worst looking things up there.  Irina, I would've put safe at fourth.  Her coat did read feminine, but she earned back points with the sex appeal of what was under the coat.  She would've been better ditching it.  Bottom three would've been Anthony Ryan and Michelle, for their non-sexy, shapeless, repetitive sacks, and Biddell.  People of every gender identification have been wearing T-shirts, jeans and fringed vests since the 60s.  His model looked like a refugee from the 60s.  There was nothing new about his design at all.  It was kind of insulting how obviously little thought he spared for the idea of innovation.  (I think he even said as much to Irina in the breakroom.  "We're so smart, we just cut and go!")  His design wasn't even attractive or eye-catching.  I'd have sent him home.

Of course, I don't like Biddell.  It's taken me awhile to figure out why, but I think it's because of his ego and how he shares it with the world.  He is his own biggest fan.  No one else gets a chance to praise him because he's already patting himself on the back, and he has the uncanny ability to turn any conversation into praise for himself.  (See: Conversation with Irina in the breakroom.)  I find his confidence in his designs misplaced.  Me, I can't remember a single one of his designs a week after the ep aired.  Biddell, there may be a reason why, most weeks, your designs are "safe safe safe safe safe..." compared to the other designers, and it's not because your designs are misunderstood.

Did I hear Sean, for the third week in a row, offer another designer (Anthony Ryan) help when he was behind?  Sean, if you had spent all the time allotted to you working on your own designs, maybe you wouldn't have been in the Bottom these weeks and then sent home.

Edited by Fellaway
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4 hours ago, zoltana said:

I'm not sure if it has to do with tension settings and thread color

Yes, since it takes a while to re-thread a machine.  They're on a killing time schedule.

I didn't like Biddelll's because that lace t-shirt is one of my least favorite things ever.  Like a fishnet t-shirt.  Corny, awful and not sexy at all to me on any gender of person.  His model worked the hell out of the outfit, made it look way better than it was.

I hated Sean's piece.  It wasn't gender neutral - it was more like the old carnival side-show male-on-one-side, female-on-the other.   Except it wasn't even that - It was my-super-straight-professional-day-job vs. my kinky-bondage-private life.  Barf, and as Isaac said, boy I've seen that one 4,000 times before.

I liked that Asia responded to the Bowie aspect of Dmitri's outfit.  I thought Klaus Nomi, meaning the same but even more so.  He would not have deserved an auf.

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Wow, I'm with Evan - I think a lot of the designers do not comprehend what gender neutral clothing is.

Sean's black and white outfit was okay. It did look like high fashion streetwear aka menswear pinstripes used in a deconstructed way mixed with weird straps.

I HATED Michelle's. Between the old lady floral wallpaper and the dripping dye that looked like creeping mold/water stains in said old lady's house, there was not a single thing I liked about that hideously ugly coat. It looked like something you would find in a dumpster.

I couldn't decide if I liked Irina's look or not. The striped trim on the front gave it a more sophisticated look in contrast with the big red and black plaid which looked like a blanket at a ski lodge. On the other hand, it wasn't as ugly as Michelle's , Evan's, or Anthony Ryan's.

But she was being a selfish bitch in the workroom. As Dmitry said last week, if you finish early then good for you but you should be considerate of people who are still working aka don't hog their sewing machines. Irina accused Christina and Michelle of being petty, but she was the one who was being selfish and petty. For that reason alone, I would have been fine with her being eliminated because I watch this show for the designs, not the drama. She knew that two other designers needed to sew stuff for the runway. She should have just apologized and moved to a different machine. Instead she had to be a petty entitled bitch and try to act like they were in the wrong for wanting to finish their garments.

I don't know what to say about Dmitry's silver trenchcoat besides that it looked like a silver trenchcoat.

Christina's model looked good on the runway. He looked tall, lean, and cool. Then again, that's what usually happens when you dress a 6'1" guy in all black. I agreed that her choice of where to put the white was smart.

Evan had the right attitude about gender neutral, but his design was so ugly. A gold lace shirt under a tan vest with knee length fringe? Just no.

Anthony Ryan made another rectangular cape/apron thing. While I appreciate him using color (unlike most of the other designers), the yellow and white looked very juvenile. Ha, I loved when Alyssa said she would not allow him to win this week because he did the same silhouette in the avant garde marker coat. Now if only we could get one of the judges to realize that Michelle has making the same fucking dress all season.

I liked Asia Kate Dillon as a judge because they were so practical. When they said the strap under the arm of Sean's design looked like it would chafe, I had to agree. But I loved it even more when they said that with an outfit that has one bare arm and one long sleeve, what season is it?

Edited by ElectricBoogaloo
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30 minutes ago, ElectricBoogaloo said:

I liked Asia Kate Dillon as a judge because she was so practical. When she said the strap under the arm of Sean's design looked like it would chafe, I had to agree. But I loved it even more when she said that with an outfit that has one bare arm and one long sleeve, what season is it?

Just fyi, Asia uses the pronoun “they”, not “she”. They are non-binary. 

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7 hours ago, hookedontv said:

Did Georgina fall into a tub of bronzer? 

My thoughts exactly!

6 hours ago, Iguana said:

It’s weird that I can agree with the judges on the winner (I thought that back and white look was the most wearable, suited all types of bodies and styles, and looked great  on her model) and violently disagree on almost every other decisions they made.  I thought Michelle’s look was frumpy with ugly fabrics and unflattering no matter who was wearing it. Anthony  Ryan’s look was shapeless and badly proportioned and basically  was just a worse version of last week’s writing coat.

1 hour ago, ElectricBoogaloo said:

I HATED Michelle's. Between the old lady floral wallpaper and the dripping dye that looked like creeping mold/water stains in said old lady's house, there was not a single thing I liked about that hideously ugly coat. It looked like something you would find in a dumpster...

...I don't know what to say about Dmitry's silver trenchcoat besides that it looked like a silver trenchcoat.

Christina's model looked good on the runway. He looked tall, lean, and cool. Then again, that's what usually happens when you dress a 6'1" guy in all black. I agreed that her choice of where to put the white was smart...

Evan had the right attitude about gender neutral, but his design was so ugly. A gold lace shirt under a tan vest with knee length fringe? Just no.

Anthony Ryan made another rectangular cape/apron thing. While I appreciate him using color (unlike most of the other designers), the yellow and white looked very juvenile. Ha, I loved when Alyssa said she would not allow him to win this week because he did the same silhouette in the avant garde marker coat. Now if only we could get one of the judges to realize that Michelle has making the same fucking dress all season.

Yes to all of these comments. I was disappointed in the lack of color in most of the looks.

I am amazed by the amount of praise that Michelle received for that coat. What was Alyssa's comment to her? Something like "you are really good."

Christina's look was elegant and sophisticated. She deserved the win.  Alternatively, Dmitri's silver trenchcoat wasn't particularly interesting. He seems uninterested in the entire competition.

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Gender neutral clothing to me means something neither traditionally masculine or feminine.  I am obviously not a designer, but none of what walked last night (2 years ago) met my uneducated definition. I think just about anything could be deemed "wearable" for anybody.  If you like it & it's comfortable and meets your needs for fashion, self esteem, career, or occassion, then just wear it.  Seems like this challenge was interpreted as "make a (another) ginormous cocoon coat" or use men's wear as inspiration to dress a woman.  Why would someone who does not identify as either M or F want to hide in a giant bag?    And if the designs were supposed to be gender neutral, than why did Georgina say in her critique of one of the items "I'd like to see something feminine underneath."  Whaaa?? 

I can't stand Michelle and it's to the point that just about everything she says annoys me.  Like when she proudly announced that her state of Oregon has an "X" as an option for gender identification at the DMV. Just sounded like she was taking credit for the political progress of an entire state.  She is just so fucking smarmy about everything!  I will give her a thank you for not wearing those dumb ass glasses though.

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9 hours ago, Angeleyes said:

I don’t get why the judges didn’t make Michele unzip her coat to inspect what was underneath. The coat was awful, but the whole combo was just fugly. Yes, florals can be for anyone, but there are many other florals that would have been better than the two types Michele picked. Grandma’s couch indeed. I think she should have been in the bottom. 

Grandma's couch combined with Grandma's net curtains, too.

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Michelle's coat/whatever didn't look like Grandma's curtains or wallpaper to me. It looked like Grandma's dirty housedress.

And whichever judge thought Anthony Ryan's coat/dress/whatever looked sexy has lost his/her/their mind. There was nothing at all sexy about that. If it weren't for the hideous yellow trim and the hideous fabric, it would have looked like a painter's smock -- something you use to cover up.

I thought Sean's didn't go far enough with the buckles. I wanted more.

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10 hours ago, hookedontv said:

When Ann (that’s her name, right?) walks in the room to “mentor,” she is greeted by the most unenthusiastic, quiet groan ever. 

IKR! She’s like a black cloud drifting into the room and everybody looks like they are trying not to cringe and give a barely audible ‘hi’. Such a difference from when Tim Gunn would walk into the room and everyone was happy to see him. 

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Unpopular opinion: Ann's critiques are often on-point, or at least specific (vs. platitudes like "that's a lot of look"). Indeed -- super-unpopular opinion -- she is more serious about offering comments than Tim had been doing in the last few seasons. 

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11 hours ago, hookedontv said:

Did Georgina fall into a tub of bronzer?

Georgina looked...well, different. I thought Vanessa Williams was back for a second week at first glance.

2 hours ago, dleighg said:

I kind of liked Michelle's look (even the ridiculous print, which she used sparingly). BUT it did look like some bodily fluids were leaking. That part was a mistake.

Hoarder Chic.

Anthony Ryan appears to have made an "Alien Ambassador" costume from a Star Trek episode.

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11 hours ago, Ashforth said:
11 hours ago, Ashforth said:

Why does "gender neutral" mean "masculine" to the designers? Why can't non-binary folk look pretty? Maybe because they threw in "streetwear" as part of the challenge. That was an edgy concept at one time, but now, yawn... I would have liked to see a skirt or cute dress instead of all the oversized coats. The judges didn't even seem to look at what was underneath most of them.

I think the problem is that they didn’t know who their models would be ahead of time.  If they ended up with someone who is very feminine in appearance and they put that person in a dress they would be accused of dressing a girl like a girl as opposed to a gender neutral outfit.  Of course, if they got someone masculine in appearance and put them in the same outfit they might have been praised, but it might have been too much of a risk.  

I wonder if Sean would have gotten a different reaction if he had used a different fabric, rather than one that is so associated with suits.  

Edited by Katherine Kegel
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3 hours ago, terrymct said:

A big coat is the easiest way to blur classic indicators of gender, such as breasts and the width of one's hips.

But is that what the challenge was-to hide whatever body you have? It's interesting that in less than 2 years, we're going from this show's idea of 'gender' dressing to Billy Porter's fabulous black velvet Oscar gown last week. Isn't the whole point supposed to be that you dress as you please, to suit whoever you feel you are?

And why didn't they criticize Irina's look for being styled traditionally feminine, with the leggings and heels?

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1 hour ago, Straycat80 said:

IKR! She’s like a black cloud drifting into the room and everybody looks like they are trying not to cringe and give a barely audible ‘hi’. Such a difference from when Tim Gunn would walk into the room and everyone was happy to see him. 

I'm on a different page here.  I remember being frustrated every week because Tim Gunn just stood there with his oh-so-affected pose.  Sure, everyone seemed to love his avuncular style, but I never saw him giving any useful advice.

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12 hours ago, Cerulean said:

What happens if you need both dark thread and light thread- do you get two machines? (since it’s my understanding that they are tedious and time consuming to thread)

Time consuming:  sergers.

Should be able to thread and adjust conventional sewing machine: should be able to do it with one hand while sketching with the other.  (Well, maybe not Anya, but anyone who has sewn on a regular machine for a couple of years.)

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1 hour ago, Brookside said:

I'm on a different page here.  I remember being frustrated every week because Tim Gunn just stood there with his oh-so-affected pose.  Sure, everyone seemed to love his avuncular style, but I never saw him giving any useful advice.

Actually, a lot of times Tim would give advice which the designers would follow, & then they would get slammed by the judges for it.

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7 minutes ago, GaT said:

Actually, a lot of times Tim would give advice which the designers would follow, & then they would get slammed by the judges for it.

I think you just proved my point about Tim not giving useful advice!

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5 hours ago, BusyOctober said:

I can't stand Michelle and it's to the point that just about everything she says annoys me.  Like when she proudly announced that her state of Oregon has an "X" as an option for gender identification at the DMV. Just sounded like she was taking credit for the political progress of an entire state.  She is just so fucking smarmy about everything!  I will give her a thank you for not wearing those dumb ass glasses though.

Thanks for helping me figure out more of why her wording irritated me so much! I’m in Oregon as well, and I was additionallg annoyed that she didn’t seem to actually understand that the third option isn’t referred to as “gender-neutral.” Maybe she was just trying to use the language of the show, but I think it’s more “I read a headline so I totally get all the nuances!” She came across the same way, to me, when talking about her friend’s kid with autism. 

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2 hours ago, Brookside said:

I'm on a different page here.  I remember being frustrated every week because Tim Gunn just stood there with his oh-so-affected pose.  Sure, everyone seemed to love his avuncular style, but I never saw him giving any useful advice.

Fair enough but the designers at least seemed to like him. I don't get that feeling with Anne. 

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Quote

I don’t get why the judges didn’t make Michele unzip her coat to inspect what was underneath. The coat was awful, but the whole combo was just fugly. Yes, florals can be for anyone, but there are many other florals that would have been better than the two types Michele picked. Grandma’s couch indeed. I think she should have been in the bottom. 

The producer's fix is so in on Michelle-- falsely hyping even her objectively terrible looks to the point of absurdity and keeping her 'til the end if not maybe even the win-- that my only surprise is that when Alyssa had to add that where-did-that-come-from "thank you, Michelle, you're great" as Michelle left the runway she didn't also slip her a big envelope full of cash.

ETA:

Quote

The designers' unenthusiastic reaction to Anne's arrival every week has become my favorite part of the show and the one thing I'll miss about All-Stars.

I'm almost starting to suspect that every time Anne enters the workroom we'll soon hear the contestants angrily growl her name like Jerry spits out "Hello, Newman" on Seinfeld.

Edited by bobbyjoe
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16 hours ago, Angeleyes said:

I don’t get why the judges didn’t make Michele unzip her coat to inspect what was underneath. The coat was awful, but the whole combo was just fugly. Yes, florals can be for anyone, but there are many other florals that would have been better than the two types Michele picked. Grandma’s couch indeed. I think she should have been in the bottom. 

I get what the judges were saying to Sean, but at least he tried to make something more fitted and sexy. Gender neutral doesn’t have to equal oversized coat. I don’t think he should have gone home for this look. 

I’m happy Christina got the win. It was the best look and I liked that the various pieces could be mixed and matched with other things. 

Irina was a jerk for hogging the sewing machine for a garment that neither her model nor herself wore during the competition. It speaks of producer shenanigans though and they’ve certainly used Irina to stir things before. 

Couldn't agree more with your commentary on Michele's clunky coat with the bad grandma floral wallpaper...hideous. Shame on Alyssa for saying "how good" she is. Michele thinks very highly of herself and has nothing critical to say about anything she makes..everything is brilliant. However...she has nothing nice to say about anything the other contestants make..in fact she's quite catty about the other contestants. She is most obnoxious contestant this season...I hope she goes home soon...I also hate her Cyndi Lauper 1980's hair style ripoff.

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Anthony Ryan's model was gorgeous and she did what she could to sell that fugly coat.  Those patches on the back reminded me of the big square pockets on size whale farmer overalls.

Glad Christina got the win.

Irina is an asshole with zero self-awareness.  Also, her coat swallowed her model. 

Michelle made another sack.  Only this time she changed it up and made layers of sacks.  Why is she still here?

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2 hours ago, Koalagirl said:

I recognized Merica from a season of Celebrity Boot Camp. 

I also think Ann sucks the air out of the room, mostly because by the time she comes into the workroom some of the designs are past the point of no return.

I forgot to add that I love Anthony Ryan's model Merika.  You're right.  I remember her on Marriage Boot Camp as the "other man/woman".  She always came off as being very genuine and kind even in a bad situation.  She's so statuesque and androgynous it's just a really cool look.  I'd love to see her as a Marvel character.

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Fashion has never been about what is comfortable.  Sean’s garment LOOKED great on the model, would have looked great on Johnny Weir, Heidi Klum and RuPaul.  So that is my definition of    gender neutral fashion.

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