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S18.E12: The Height of Avant Garde Fashion


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33 minutes ago, Nordly Beaumont said:

Nancy: I just put my first seam in.
Geoffrey: Heh heh... Semen!

Victoria (looking at her rack of past looks): "I want to be cohesive..." Well, they're all the same sweetie, so I think your wish is granted.

Sergio's "political" statement of the week: "Women can do anything men can do." Groundbreaking. 


Sergio is just a bunch of banal thoughts and sayings wrapped in a yawn.

Honestly, for a two day, high dollar challenge, the results were pretty underwhelming. 

Well said.

I honestly have to wonder about Sergio's education, or lack thereof.  Every week he's regurgitated a new 'political statement' to fit his outfit.  There's no coherent thought in anything he's said.  He's totally playing to the audience, saying things that he thinks will make him 'popular' with the fans. But he doesn't have the knowledge or self-awareness to realize that he's spewing bullshit.

I don't like Nancy (at all) but her design was good.  But I'm a huge fan of Comme des Garcons and it's clear that Nancy has been influenced by Japanese designers.  Not to the point of Sergio's out and out theft, but it's there.  I think Elaine said it all when she spoke about Nancy's 'story'.  THAT'S why Nancy is in the final.  She's the great middle-aged hope.

The judges were babbling about latex as if the 80s never happened.  I was there and since I spent a lot of time in clubs, I wore my share of latex.  I liked Geoffrey's jacket but the latex knickers were just plain silly.  He's in thanks to past designs and the fact that the judges seem to love him.  And he definitely brings the drama.

Victoria makes no fucking sense.  There's nothing appealing about her or her designs.  Somehow or other the judges and the producers have decided that Victoria is 'cool'.  They might all want to check their taste level because 'cool' and Victoria are a Moldavian mile apart.

I think it's going to be a sad, uninspiring finale.

 

 

 

Edited by mightysparrow
It's Elaine
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I disagree that Sergio stole anything from other designers. If you look hard enough you can find a designer who made every kind of look. Using Japanese makeup should not be limited to certain people. I dislike him as a person but think he is a very good designer and saw nothing old lady about the pieces he had tonight.

Victoria ‘s outfit looked cheap to me and I have seen similar looks before. Loved Geoffrey ‘s jacket but not the rest. Nancy was just ok to me her pieces don’t like things you could actually buy but tacked on pieces of fabric. Brittany should have done something different than butterflies again. Wasn’t crazy about Marquise’ look but would have liked to see his collection.

Edited by Madding crowd
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52 minutes ago, violet and green said:

Also, that building made me feel sick. Couldn't focus on the fashion as I was too worried about the models falling down those endless stairs and noticing some of them gripping the handrails, poor things, and when we saw them it was from a distance or just a brief camera swoop. I wish they'd just had them come down in their groups of three in the lifts and then walk on the ground. Poor Brandon, too, I felt for him.

I was looking forward to visiting the Vessel, but seeing it up close like that has me having second thoughts, LOL!!  

I noticed that most, if not all of the models were wearing flats, sneakers or very low shoes.  I wonder if they intentionally informed the designers that for safety's sake, the models must wear more sensible shoes rather than stilettos or high heels.  

I noticed that Karlie was walking very carefully and slowly in her extremely high stilettos.  

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I quickly Google'd Alexander McQueen and all of these references popped up immediately, so I thought I should contribute to show what Nina is talking about.  I love when they point out these references and I always want to defend them. When Nina says to Sergio "Now, you know fashion history" she's wrong about that.  He just straight up does not, and does not care, and that's something I don't like.  I don't like when people say "You haven't seen this before" when it's just not true.  There's nothing wrong with showing respect to the masters of your craft and there's nothing wrong with showing deference to your influences.  

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Edited by Ms Blue Jay
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2 minutes ago, Ms Blue Jay said:

I quickly Google'd Alexander McQueen and all of these references popped up immediately, so I thought I should contribute to show what Nina is talking about.  I love when they point out these references and I always want to defend them.

 

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Thank you.

It's not just about makeup.  Sergio steals design elements from Dior, both Christian and when John Galliano was designing for the label.  And from these pictures, it's clear he's familiar with McQueen's work.  Should he get credit because he 'borrows' from the best?

 

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5 minutes ago, Ms Blue Jay said:

I quickly Google'd Alexander McQueen and all of these references popped up immediately, so I thought I should contribute to show what Nina is talking about.  I love when they point out these references and I always want to defend them. When Nina says to Sergio "Now, you know fashion history" she's wrong about that.  He just straight up does not, and does not care, and that's something I don't like.

 

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Thank you, Ms. Blue Jay for this - all of Nina's comments make total sense now!!  I can see why Nina would make the comparison to McQueen.  Those two white garments are unbelievably gorgeous!  

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2 minutes ago, Gothish520 said:

And I'm all about that gorgeous purple coat!

I couldn't stop adding more references 🙂  I can't help it.

I found Sergio's makeup a little offensive, honestly.  It was also offensive in those examples that they showed on PR with respect to John Galliano.  

Edited by Ms Blue Jay
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2 hours ago, TexasGal said:

If its Brittany and Marquise out I’d be ok with it since they both have been out and given a second chance - which I think is where the judges are heading.  

Good point, I didn't think about it that way.

2 hours ago, mightysparrow said:

I don't know why it was 'inevitable' that Marquise wouldn't make it in.  It's not as if the others were master designers.  Anyone who has any knowledge of ballroom culture knows that ballroom culture is VERY fashion forward.  I think Marquise's biggest problem was he wasn't dramatic enough for the producers.  Being a low-key, quiet man who doesn't impose himself on everyone else or make 'bold' (and incredibly ignorant) STATEMENTS, wasn't enough for them.

I liked Marquise's design this week!  It was so atypical compared to the other designers.

I thought Victoria's looked really nicely made, but I wouldn't put it in the Avant Garde category.  The judges are so damn obsessed with her.  Elaine looked terrified to even say something negative about her because Nina worships Victoria's ass so damn much.

Edited by Ms Blue Jay
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1 hour ago, njbchlover said:

I can see why Nina would make the comparison to McQueen. 

And I must not know fashion that well - which I'm okay with actually - because while I can see a sort of resemblance to the first top,*** I don't think that Sergio's skirt looked anything like any of those examples above.

But then again, I didn't think Sergio's backward tuxedo dress looked much like the original either.

And that he was able to pull both of those garments off in the extremely short time span they get, I thought was amazing.

*** Also I don't think there should be some off-limits on high-necked tops. The judges - including Nina - certainly didn't mind it on Daniel Vosovic's orchid inspired dress. It even got the win (even though I thought Andrae's gutter water dress should have gotten the win myself) and there was no mention of it being heavily influenced by anyone that I remember, even though it was much closer to the time McQueen's look happened.

1 hour ago, dbell1 said:

Sergio needs to shut up and sew. That skirt was insane, the tailoring amazing,

Agreed. I don't know how he pulled that off in a two day challenge.

Edited by AwesomO4000
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3 hours ago, chitowngirl said:

God, I loathe Sergio’s smugness and self importance.

Ha!  Brittney’s face with Nancy’s critique!

Yes his overall personality was gawd awful, but his work was beautiful. However, Sergio's trait of refusing to give a nod to designers who had similar silhouettes BEFORE him is very frustrating. He is not that young.

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I assumed a Chinese person dressed up like a Japanese person was the irritation behind Sergio’s model. And even though they told him they were done with stories, he told one anyway. (Incidentally, if you google for images of the Onna-bugeisha, they look NOTHING like his outfit)

I was a little surprised they didn’t direct the designers to use the building as inspiration. 
 

And everyone knows cold water is what gets out blood!

Edited by Cerulean
Forgot to mention the Onna-Bugeisha
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1 hour ago, mightysparrow said:

it's clear he's familiar with McQueen's work.  Should he get credit because he 'borrows' from the best?

 

But does he intentionally borrow? I know when I am on a roll, writing lyrics, someone will point out my 'original work's' similarity to some long-ago song. Sure enough... it looks like I borrowed some wording, yet I didn't. (Well, at least not consciously.) My writing was done without an inkling of any other work, yet I cannot use it. I find it extremely frustrating.

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1 hour ago, Madding crowd said:

. If you look hard enough you can find a designer who made every kind of look.

You are so right. Every original design on Project Runway can have some element of its look traced back to some historical design. Nothing new is truly new, especially IF someone chooses to be super picky while critiquing. I get how frustrated Nina feels when Sergio plays design-ignorant (I am pretty sure everyone remembers Celine Dion wearing that backward tuxedo). Then again, Sergio strikes me as someone who is so impressed by his own talent that he wouldn't bother looking to other designers. Regardless, I think Sergio creates beautiful garments.

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4 hours ago, AwesomO4000 said:

But of course Victoria is in.

I don't know what it is, but Victoria clearly has horseshoes hidden in various orifices.  She keeps saying she can and will do better, yet I haven't seen the apparent 'talent' the judges see.

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3 hours ago, mightysparrow said:

It's interesting that Sergio got into the finals even though on two separate occasions the judges have pointed out that he's 'borrowed' from other designers.  

I thought he didn't make the finals? Sergio and Brittney are out.

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18 hours ago, Ellaria Sand said:

This entire season has been completely underwhelming.

I have already deleted the recording, so I can't watch the ending, but I swear I thought Sergio lost over Marquise. So Marquise and Brittney were sent home? I need to give my head a shake as I would have bet money that Brittney and Sergio were sent home.

Edited by Chalby
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7 hours ago, Thumper said:

Not sure I was listening, but did Brittany say her stuff was better than the others?  Did I mis-hear?

She said: "I definitely didn't think I was going to go home. I was so close. Do I feel like none of the people that are in the top four deserve it? Not necessarily but do I feel like I deserve it more? Most definitely."

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5 hours ago, Ms Blue Jay said:

I couldn't stop adding more references 🙂  I can't help it.

I found Sergio's makeup a little offensive, honestly.  It was also offensive in those examples that they showed on PR with respect to John Galliano.  

 

4 hours ago, Cerulean said:

I assumed a Chinese person dressed up like a Japanese person was the irritation behind Sergio’s model. And even though they told him they were done with stories, he told one anyway. (Incidentally, if you google for images of the Onna-bugeisha, they look NOTHING like his outfit)

I was a little surprised they didn’t direct the designers to use the building as inspiration. 
 

And everyone knows cold water is what gets out blood!


Ah, yes.  Cultural appropriation.     Oh, Sergio!

Anyone else think Victoria was joking when, after Christian said they at $600 to spend at Mood and she whined I need more, and then realize she wasn’t?

And as some said upthread, with part of the prize being a CFDA mentorship, do Sergio or Victoria really have a chance to win unless the other two really tank.   

Edited by DEL901
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7 hours ago, violet and green said:

I thought, given Marquise had previously been auf'd and then was only in the competition again because Dayoung (sob) had to leave due to her health, and also given he's been rather uneven in his designs since, it was highly likely he would be out, even before the episode started. But I would much prefer to see a Marquise collection than a Nancy collection. I think he's very talented, and I really hope he gets backing for his work and does well.

I also thought, even though they had no elimination last episode to in part (in my mind, at least) save Brittany, as they'd high hopes for a return to form (same reason Christian used up his CS Save on her), it was quite possible she could go home.

So the two previously eliminated designers were re-eliminated.

I am sad not to see more of Marquise's work; not so much Brittany's or Brittany. Though she gave some very funny talking down her nose interviews! The last one with a big red nose was very funny, inadvertently; made me think editors/production didn't much like her, as it was such a bad camera angle and used repeatedly.

Christian really gave her a bum steer re using the butterfly print for the underdress, and okaying the butterfly cut-outs. She really was out of gas, designwise. Her coat - Schiaparelli shocking pink, if we are going to talk about ripping off previous classics - was a bit eh. But the judging could have gone either way, I felt.

Nancy's was supremely underwhelming for a two-day challenge, and also repetitive. But  I guess they didn't want to miss out on a first in PR history with her.

Criticizing Sergio's makeup was ludicrous. It was part of why the whole look was so stunning, and previous designers using Kabuki makeup/Geisha makeup is really no reason to rip into him. Normally, I enjoy Meana's critiques - I have to think she was using it as a jumping off point, to really get through to Sergio, to set him up well for the next 5 months.

Five months! Fantastic!

I really liked the snippet I saw of Sergio's collection and am rather hoping he pulls off a surprise win. Geoffrey, also keen to see his collection. Nancy's looked like miserable clumpy seaweed. 'No oversize clothes,' goes Teen Vogue. That's her whole oeurvre, you idiot. That's her freaking aesthetic. And hate Victoria's new hair, from the preview. I do hope her collection is not... unduly influenced by confusion from that final critique, and trying to give them what they want. Happy for her to blow it out of the park and win, also.

Really looking forward to next week.

I agree with every word of your well thought-out comment!

Especially regarding Sergio’s styling.  Even if you accept the concept that if others did something no one else can ever do it again, well then, either McQueen or Galliano (I don’t know which) did it first therefore the other wouldn’t have been allowed to.  Why is it ok for two designers but not three to have the same makeup and styling?   It went along with Sergio’s concept.  I thought that was just silly, because his design was spectacular and that’s what we’re here for.  I only hope the model wasn’t troubled personally by it and understood it was meant to be an hommage.  

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6 hours ago, Nordly Beaumont said:

Nancy: I just put my first seam in.
Geoffrey: Heh heh... Semen!

Victoria (looking at her rack of past looks): "I want to be cohesive..." Well, they're all the same sweetie, so I think your wish is granted.

Sergio's "political" statement of the week: "Women can do anything men can do." Groundbreaking. 

Sergio is just a bunch of banal thoughts and sayings wrapped in a yawn.

Honestly, for a two day, high dollar challenge, the results were pretty underwhelming. 

You know why I hate with the fire of a thousand nuns that hackneyed expression of Sergio's?

Because WTH declared that the minority gender was the default?? It is past time when men should be compared to women! "You know, I really believe that men can have as much fortitude as women, under the right circumstances." #Bronxcheer

Topic: None of the designs was Avant-garde, if professional runway shows are the standard. 

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I truly disliked Victoria's dress.   I hate uneven hems; they look like something I would've done in home-ec back in the day, because I can't sew for shit.    Her whole garment drove me nuts with all its unbalanced aesthetic and poorly fitted bodice.  

There was  praise for Brittany's bubble gum pink color choice, but no likey.   Not the color, not the butterflies, not the puffiness.   Nothing.   It's astounding that she thought that would keep her in the game.  

I repeat myself by saying that I hope Nancy knocks it out of the park for a FW win, but the fix is probably in for Sergio or Victoria.   In that case, since they're both insufferable, I'd vote for Sergio, just because his clothes are beautiful, interesting and well made.   He may have an inflated opinion of himself, but I don't think he's thrown hissy fits like V has.  Has he??   Plus I'd love to see the look on her face when she loses.   

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9 hours ago, mightysparrow said:

Christian made a good suggestion.  A menswear season would be interesting.

Edited to add:  God knows this show could use some fresh ideas.  This season has been sooooooooo TIRED.  The skill level has been shockingly low and the original ideas are few and far between, if the glimpses we got of the home visits are any indication.

The skill level is low this season. Hate Sergio but everything coming out of his mouth is true.  He is way above the other contestants in terms of skill except maybe Geoffrey.  And if any of them had their own look they’d be farther ahead in their careers already.   
 

The other contestants looks can only be compared to department store looks I’ve already seen at the mall.  Asymmetrical clothing is old news and yet there’s Victoria and the judges acting like she just invented the wheel. 

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@stormy weather...that was an excellent post. I agree completely. 

I question how much Victoria or Sergio would benefit from a CFDA mentorship since neither seems particularly adept of accepting constructive criticism. Marquis seems to have the raw talent that would benefit from that type of guidance.

2 hours ago, ElectricBoogaloo said:

Poor Brandon. I'm afraid of heights too so I get it. Like if I go to the mall and look down at the first floor from the second floor, my stomach drops and my heart starts pounding.

Having the runway show at the Vessel was interesting in an artsy way, but if the judges are using opera glasses to view what the designers have made, maybe this isn't the best venue for a fashion show.

Same here. My fear of heights gets worse with age. I couldn't believe that the runway was down steep stairs with the judges viewing from afar. That was silly, IMO.

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Sooo much to comment on but I’ll stick to 3 for now:

1. Victoria’s serious comment at Mood when Christian told them they had $600 to spend and she said “I need more.” Bitch please! You’re clothes are so tacky and god-awful you could take $200 and be able to make the same garment. I can’t believe Victoria is still here. 
 

2. Nancy’s flashback pic to her and her hubs. Who is with me to start a petition to have Nancy wear her hair short again? That said, it was refreshing to see her in braids, that looked cute. I think it’s that top knot that really ages her. 
 

3. Brandon to Geoffrey on the runway: “There’s a nervousness and self doubt about you.” Ya think? Even when they show Geoffrey’s hands sewing or working they are actually shaking. And from scenes from next week, that man is even more of an emotional mess. I hope he can get it together! Not just for this, but for life. 

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Weirdly, and in retrospect, I don't think any of the PR contestants are true designers, with the exception of Geoffrey and Dayoung.

I think Sergio is a great tailor with a conservative, elegant viewpoint. He makes beautiful dresses for rich women. But so do tens of thousands of other designers. (Note: many rich women don't give a fig for liberal political posturing.)

Victoria has an extremely narrow, sexy viewpoint marketed toward young women. And she can sew. But I feel her aesthetic is very limited. And not notable.

Nancy kept pushing out huge garments and the same trousers all season, so again a narrow focus that's probably not marketable.

Despite his nervous disposition and lack of confidence, with time and a mentorship Geoffrey may have the most capacity for growth. He could be the dark horse.

Having said the above, I feel PR is still nothing more than a gimmicky entertainment show. Remember the first season? It was fabulous and a true designer competition.

I've been watching Netflix's design show and I feel the designers are much more talented.

I suspect Heidi's and Tim's new show will be a mess.

Edited by pasdetrois
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51 minutes ago, Ellaria Sand said:

Same here. My fear of heights gets worse with age. I couldn't believe that the runway was down steep stairs with the judges viewing from afar. That was silly, IMO.

When Karlie and Elaine pulled out opera glasses to look at the models I snort laughed.  Yes, very dramatic.  But ridiculous.

10 hours ago, Harry24 said:

Was Karlie wearing a garment from Sebastian's winning collection?

You know, you may be right!  At one point I was thinking why does that dress look familiar but I couldn't put my finger on it.

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2 hours ago, SuprSuprElevated said:

I'll keep checking the Bravo site for the look pics, as of now they aren't up.  Screengrabbing from video takes more time than I care to invest, and can't even come up with a good vid at this point.

Reddit has two threads, an episode discussion and a critique thread.  All the looks are on the critique thread, you just have to click on the designer’s name  

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