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S01.E05: Streetwear


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The designers pack their bags and head to Tokyo. Once they arrive, their assignment is to create a two-look streetwear collection. As one designer struggles to step out of their comfort zone, another designer looks to the local workers for inspiration.

Original air date: 4/10/20

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When thinking of this show in comparison with Project Runway, I can see a lot of great things about Making the Cut: location, time for designers, better finished garments.  But, as evidenced by the last few shows, the drama is just not there.  The designers already have fashion lines and we don't see the (I'm not saying "passion!") desire or ambition that the designers on PR have.  An example of this is Esther going with all black again this time.  She doesn't want to compromise her brand and she doesn't NEED to compromise.  She can leave the competition at any time and continue with her business.  Which is all fine, but doesn't provide the entertainment of PR, the drama, or the competitive snark of the contestants.  

In the past, after watching PR, I would want to rush to this forum to get everyone's view on what just happened and share my opinions, as well.  With this show, I find myself without a whole lot to comment on and very little to read about here.  

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Ji Won's red runway look reminded me of Michael Jackson's Thriller outfit. I hated the cut outs and the knees and the removal "let's make these into shorts" aspect. I liked the colorful print she made with her name. It added a nice pop of color to her other outfit, but from a distance the color logos + the white reminded me of that ubiquitous Louis Vuitton print from 2003. I actually like Ji Won's print much more but this was inescapable back then!

Louis-Vuitton-Multicolore-Canvas.thumb.jpg.1399640614de9bbf9382899944670c41.jpg

I HATE when designers refuse to use anything but black. And this was the perfect challenge to throw in some color but nope, Esther could not deviate even one iota from her "universe." I don't care how much detail you put into an outfit because if it's all black and you can't see any of that detail, what's the point? Her first look was a perfect example of that. When it came down the escalator, it looked ike the same boring oversized cropped sweatshirt and regular nondescript sweatpants that everyone has for lounging around the house. It's telling that all the judges' comments were about the hair hat and not the actual outfit. The dress fell into a similar category. Boring, not interesting, nothing new to make me want to buy this version of a black dress instead of just wearing one that I already have in my closet. I absolutely HATE that she went to a candy colored Harajuku monster cafe and she turned her pictures into black and white photos. BLAH. "I'm not rejecting color. It just needs to be my decision." Well, so far you have decided to reject color every fucking week.

I did not like Sander's pink straitjacket.  The skirt looked like a cat got into this woman's closet and shredded the shit out of something. I liked the red/black print of this accessible top. I agreed with his original assessment that putting that sheer dotted fabric over bare skin made it look like the model had acne or some kind of disease. I didn't mind it on the first model because it wasn't right on top of her skin. Did he tell his second model to have Alexis hands?

I liked Jonny's purple and black print. I agree that putting the sheer black on top worked even better. The other outfit was not as interesting. The sleeveless kimono top plus black pants didn't really do anything for me. Hated the hair with the faux bun and chopsticks.

I liked Megan's 80s geometric print but I hated the mullet skirt. The white top with the straps looked like it was trying too hard for that "oops this is about to fall off" look. Her second look was more successful (I liked the pop of red too). I hated the big red splotch of lipstick next to the models' mouths. WHY?

I didn't understand why Sabato fell in love with that striped fabric. On my screen, it looked like a larger version of a dingy faded kitchen rag. Ugh, two more simple dresses? I disagreed with Tim about that striped dress. It was shapeless and looked like a sack on the model so I was fine with Sabato scrapping it.

Rinat's blue button down shirt with different striped patches was very 90s to me, as were the rave pants. Tim was right to tell her not to use the same fabric on the facing of her kimono puffer. Using that constrasting fabric made a huge difference. It still looked like a sleeping bag wrapped around a model and belted in the most unflattering way, but the prints were great together.

Ciao, Sabato! I did love how random it was that he ran into someone he knew from Paris on the street!

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Didn't Gwen Stefani totally do Harajuku like, 25 years ago?  Couldn't they come up with a slightly more innovative concept?  Such a stale look.  

Heidi's black & cream striped blouse looks like identical fabric to last week's "fresh and innovative" winning dress.  Ugly then, slightly better as an overshirt.  Not fresh. 

I'm stunned Ji didn't have a million random strings hanging off everywhere.   Megan did though.

Wait, there's a Megan?

The thing I hate with the fire of a thousand suns is a reality show competitor whining "I don't DO _____ ", "streetwear" or "color"  or "deserts" or "office buildings", etc.  Every damn one going on a show like this knows there's going to be challenges with things they DON'T specialize in.  Every damn one.  EVERY DAMN TIME!  So, so much hate....  

Rinat's win was so obvious from the runway.  Nothing I like, but obviously what the judges, wanted.  

Sabato was an obvious cut, and I didn't like his "tortured artist" schtick.  Very tiring and such a time waster.  

 

Edited by leighdear
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That was the right result.  I fully disagreed with Tim in that I thought sabatos original dress looked like a rumply mess and not anything like street wear.  I liked sabatos second black dress, but that wasn't street wear either.  

I think they should have read Esther harder for not using even a hint of color.  I think she brought the right vib, but if you want to be a sellable brand then you cannot be so married to a single color.  There wasn't even a bit of piping in another color.  IMO, it's almost disrespectful to the streetwear scene to put your insistence on black above incorporating any color since it seems like a pretty vital part of the scene.  

I liked ji wons look but was happy with rinats win. 

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3 hours ago, leighdear said:

Didn't Gwen Stefani totally do Harajuku like, 25 years ago?  Couldn't they come up with a slightly more innovative concept?  Such a stale look.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I think Gwen Stefani still travels the world with her harijuku indentured servants girls, right?

LOL, I came here looking for this forum to drag this show for putting an "influencer" on the judging panel.  I know I'm old because I ALWAYS think that's a ridiculous move.  

Also, what happened to Nicole Richie?  I don't particularly like her, so it's fine for me, but I'm curious as to why she stopped doing the show?  The editor of french vogue at least had a decent excuse although it sounds like she fully peaced out of the show.  

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3 hours ago, RealReality said:

I think Gwen Stefani still travels the world with her harijuku indentured servants girls, right?

I think Gwen stopped that when she had to divorce her husband for banging the nanny. Can't have too many minions around a straying husband. 

 She does still have some clothing & accessory lines that feature the looks and an anime-type cartoon about them.  No touring as her backup dancers anymore though.

I think Blake and her 3 boys are their stand-ins.  Less mascara & cat fights, I imagine.  

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It was obvious Sabato was not making the cut by the many clips of his struggling and I knew for sure when they showed the shot of him alone in a parking lot smoking a cigarette. 
I must be getting old because streetwear to me is basically anything Iooking like a Halloween costume. But congrats to Rinat.

Nicole Richie must not have wanted to come to Tokyo. Heidi said she would be a judge at the finale tho. 

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31 minutes ago, Straycat80 said:

I must be getting old because streetwear to me is basically anything Iooking like a Halloween costume. But congrats to Rinat.

To me, the outfits look like they were designed by toddlers that accidentally got into mom's Ecstasy.  

And we're not old, we're discriminating

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I’m still not sure what “street wear” means. Cute rumble clothes? Pajamas? 

Glad Sabato is gone. Everything was Handmaid’s Tale from him. Wasn’t a fan of most of the stuff. Shocked Naomi actually liked someone. 

I can live without Heidi trying to dress up Tim. 

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Ugh. The music alone is making it really hard for me to watch this show. I do not need generic pop tunes to tell me how to feel or try to fool me into thinking it's more exciting than it is. And those tunes are so cheesy. 

Also don't like they way they do the judging. One thing I really liked about Next In Fashion is that the judges go around and critique all the looks. Here, it is telegraphed which 2 will be on top and on bottom and they only talk to those few. Then the whole making them dance cuz the judges might change their mind thing is cringe-worthy. 

I felt kind of embarrassed for Tim when Heidi was dressing him. Like he is some dementia patient whose daughter is putting him in an unfortunate hat. I adore Tim, but I really do not think he is on the pulse anymore, and his Tim Talks are mostly questionable advice and/or him having inexplicable moments like his soliloquy about how profound and significant Sabato's hideous street dress is. 

Of the three big fashion shows I am liking this one the least. I actually will also put the UK show The Great British Sewing Bee ahead of it too. That is actually a totally delightful show if you want to see interesting and talented amateurs make a variety of garments. 

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I really had high hopes for this show. I'll watch til the end just because I started and I hope at least the finale will be good.  Heidi and Tim are cringeworthy.  There's no drama. The clothes are boring.  Project Runway and Next in Fashion are way more entertaining.

 

I did like seeing Tokyo and the escalator runway was kind of cool. The music is so bad though I may have to start watching with the sound muted.

 

 

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23 hours ago, SemiCharmedLife said:

In the past, after watching PR, I would want to rush to this forum to get everyone's view on what just happened and share my opinions, as well.  With this show, I find myself without a whole lot to comment on and very little to read about here.  

I feel the same way, this show just doesn't give me much to talk about.

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Tim, have your attorney or manager take a look at whoever negotiated your contract. If Heidi humiliating you is allowed, indeed, fire someone.

Sayonara, Sabato. Streetwear was not in you—and thanks for dumping that piece Tim claimed to like. Judges would have dragged you for it.

Influencer? Congratulations, Show, you’ve made Nicole Richie look legit. 

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1 hour ago, buttersister said:

 

Influencer? Congratulations, Show, you’ve made Nicole Richie look legit. 

Now that's more like it!  And that statement about "all of my followers will buy that ridiculous ass hat" was so smug and narcassitic that I was nearly nauseous. 

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20 hours ago, leighdear said:

Didn't Gwen Stefani totally do Harajuku like, 25 years ago?  Couldn't they come up with a slightly more innovative concept?  Such a stale look.  

Japanese streetwear existed before Gwen Stefani/L.A.M.B. and it still exists today. One of the many unfortunate side effects of culture vultures like Gwen Stefani "borrowing" aesthetics from elsewhere is that they end up turning something specific to a certain population into a trend which then ages out after a few seasons in the fashion world.

But streetwear also exists outside of Japan and if I recall correctly, the assignment was just streetwear. Nothing that these designers sent down the escalators looked like Harajuku style.

17 hours ago, RealReality said:

I think Gwen Stefani still travels the world with her harijuku indentured servants girls, right?

The short answer is no, she doesn't do either anymore. I don't remember when she ditched the harajuku girls, but it was a while ago. She hasn't toured a lot since she started having kids. Her kids were born in 2006, 2008, and 2014. She did a solo international tour in 2007. Since then, she's toured only in North America (with No Doubt in 2009 and solo in 2016). She's had a residency in Las Vegas since 2018.

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I liked Heidi dressing Tim because it underlined the ridiculous look and attitude some people have when it comes to street wear. In this situations people approach this from a rigid costumey perspective. Rather than allowing for the aesthetic to be interpreted they want one version of what they think visually defines these clothes. It was the same as the Cyndi Lauper challenge on PR and any attempt at people to do punk. I think saying "it's all black so it isn't street wear" is a cop out. Could Sabato have made street wear in his aesthetic? Could Esther? I think so but the judges were so rigid in their think that they would have still faced an uphill battle.

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I actually liked this episode, well I liked the designs for the most part. It was Sabato"s time to go. I did like some of his earlier designs though. Esther is getting on my nerves. Again, her first designs were pretty wow, but now everything looks the sames. Maybe because they're ALL BLACK. Don't get me wrong, I love black and it makes up most of my wardrobe, but girl - break out a little bit, especially in this challenge.

I too can do without the pop music background and Heidi's over the top enthusiasm as well as the little Tim and Heidi vignettes. But I do like that they're not as rushed and don't have to make garments out of garbage bags. And I like hearing the judges comments during the runway. Even Naomi. 

Sander is entertaining and very creative and I love that he just does his thing. I liked his 2 outfits.

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I lauged at Rinat saying she was inspired by people on the street not caring how they dress - those "I don't care" outfits are carefully coordinated, lol.  I thought Rinat was the clear winner.

Arrivederci, Sabato!  Like Esther, you just can't see beyond your own aesthetic and you're probably better off not being on the show.  Though I agree that Esther is more modern & what the judges are looking for, I am soooo over her I -yam-what-I yam-and that-is a designer-who-does-black.  The pics she took for inspiration she even removed the color from.  I know it's all very serious and it's her brand but I just have to laugh.

14 hours ago, TVbitch said:

I felt kind of embarrassed for Tim when Heidi was dressing him. Like he is some dementia patient whose daughter is putting him in an unfortunate hat. I adore Tim, but I really do not think he is on the pulse anymore,

I have to agree with this.  I know Tim was paid more for that segment than I probably earn in a year but it was not cute or fun and he looked ridiculous.    I also really like Tim and I think he genuinely cares what the designers are doing, as much as you can care about someone you've just met but I don't think the show is using him well.

Every word out of Naomi's mouth annoys me more, though not as much as Heidi, because we see more of Heidi.

Positive?  Though not for me, I did like most of the designs.

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I enjoyed the runway show this episode, but for a lot of them I couldn't tell the difference between the "accessible" piece and the "showstopper." 

Tim's role is really weird on this show since the designers already have an established brand and don't really need a mentor. However, I believe he did help Rinat get the win by suggesting a contrasting fabric for the lining of that jacket. And even though Sabato's dress that he loved was so ugly, somehow it was a lot uglier on the model than it was on the mannequin. I could kind of see what Tim was saying. If Sabato could translate his aesthetic of elegant simplicity into something for everyday, that would make him more of a contender to be a "global brand." Too bad it didn't work.

I bet everyone noticed the woman in the background at the fabric store wearing a mask. I know that's common in Asian countries, but I bet next season a lot of fashion collections will include masks and face coverings.

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1 hour ago, nb360 said:

I was also confused by Tim's enthusiasm for Sabato's dress. The colors looked dull.

Yeah, I thought the harijuku street scene was about vibrance, fun, color.  There was a blonde guy on the street with dark baggy jeans but his hair was bright and fun and kinda punky.  

The whole "well this is streetwear to me" seems like it could be fashioned into an excuse to just send whatever you want down the runway and I think that was part of what sabato did. 

As for Esther, insisting that you can only design in black seems more like a gimmick and less like a design asthetic (even if I can't spell it).  If the designs are strongly esther, then they will come across as such, even in color.  

Wouldn't we all collectively roll our eyes if Martha refused to design an all black or all monochrome outfit? 

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On 4/10/2020 at 8:40 AM, leighdear said:

The thing I hate with the fire of a thousand suns is a reality show competitor whining "I don't DO _____ ", "streetwear" or "color"  or "deserts" or "office buildings", etc.  Every damn one going on a show like this knows there's going to be challenges with things they DON'T specialize in.  Every damn one.  EVERY DAMN TIME!  So, so much hate....  

 

 

Same here.  Aren't they fucking designers?  It especially irks me when someone only uses one color.  Hey Esther, designing in all black does not make you edgy.  It makes you try hard!

The right person was voted off the island (although I hate Sander's designs).  I mean even the supposedly revolution design that Tim raved about was still a flowing design.  It just had a print.  But if Esther is going to continue to only use black, get her the fuck off the show.  It's boring.

I absolutely loved Johnny's print.  If he had a better second look, he would have won.

I did think it was funny when Rinate was describing what she saw that inspired her and I'm sitting here thinking so you saw people with X and you designed X.  I mean, I wouldn't thought it more impressive if she didn't see people walking the street with a chain on their pants.

Edited by sasha206
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Tim seemed all over the place in his critiques.  Usually I shout "LISTEN TO TIM" at the top of my lungs.  He was right with Esther and Sabato but in the case of Ji Won and Jonny he ended up being wrong.  I think Rinat was the only one who took his advice in the ones we saw.

I still like Esther but the slap on the wrist regarding the black was overdue.  Like everyone said this was the challenge to take a step further in your identity and brand and she didn't.

Happy that Rinat won.  Her styles aren't exactly my favorite but I definitely see her growing and stepping out of that comfort zone.

It was pretty clear Sabato was toast.  As said upthread these challenges are meant to you know CHALLENGE you.  It's not gonna be all draping and evening gowns.  Naomi seemed really hurt at him going home but who would have it been if they had changed their minds?

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15 hours ago, Sesquipedalia said:

I bet next season a lot of fashion collections will include masks and face coverings.

A lot of designers have included face masks in their runway shows in the past. This is from the 2019 Marine Serre fall/winter runway.

marine-serre-fw2019-1551819669.thumb.jpg.adf0a44a7ccd0e775ce457d9730be832.jpg

That wasn't the first appearance that masks have made on the runway though. Per this NY Times article, Qiaodan Yin Peng's 2014 collection featured masks, as did Masha Ma's 2015 spring collection. Airinum (which makes N95 masks0 has done collaborations with several designers in the past few years too.

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On 4/10/2020 at 10:48 PM, TVbitch said:

I felt kind of embarrassed for Tim when Heidi was dressing him. Like he is some dementia patient whose daughter is putting him in an unfortunate hat.

Indeed, that was embarrassing.

I seem to recall folks here saying that the winning designs were surpisingly hard to find on Amazon. I thought it was amusing that the show explicitly showed typing "making the cut store" into the Amazon search bar 🙂

Edited by dleighg
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On 4/10/2020 at 12:01 PM, RealReality said:

I fully disagreed with Tim in that I thought sabatos original dress looked like a rumply mess and not anything like street wear.

I have no idea what Tim saw in that, other than that it didn't look like something Sabato would have made

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7 hours ago, ElectricBoogaloo said:

A lot of designers have included face masks in their runway shows in the past. This is from the 2019 Marine Serre fall/winter runway.

marine-serre-fw2019-1551819669.thumb.jpg.adf0a44a7ccd0e775ce457d9730be832.jpg

That wasn't the first appearance that masks have made on the runway though. Per this NY Times article, Qiaodan Yin Peng's 2014 collection featured masks, as did Masha Ma's 2015 spring collection. Airinum (which makes N95 masks0 has done collaborations with several designers in the past few years too.

Likely because they actually wear masks.  When I was in Japan, during a non-pandemic, non-SARS time, there were people wearing masks during allergy season.  

5 hours ago, dleighg said:

I have no idea what Tim saw in that, other than that it didn't look like something Sabato would have made

The funny thing to me, is the only thing non-Sabato about it was that it was a tie dye-like print.  Other than that, it was flowly, non-fitted garment.  So I don't understand why Tim thought this was such a departure, such a revolution for him.  

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On 4/11/2020 at 1:02 PM, raven said:

I know it's all very serious and it's her brand but I just have to laugh.

I know it's all very serious in her mind, but you have to laugh because it's well, laughable.  

16 hours ago, RealReality said:

Wouldn't we all collectively roll our eyes if Martha refused to design an all black or all monochrome outfit? 

Funny you should mention her.  First thing I thought of was how absolutely in Martha's wheelhouse this challenge would have been.  Sort of.

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One of my many irritations about this show is the term 'accessible' being woven throughout.  Do they mean 'marketable'/appealing to the masses, or production friendly?  I haven't found too many of the 'accessible' looks to be either of those things any more so than the not-so accessible ones.  On the last PR season for example, 'accessible' was used to mean that it was designed for those differently abled. 

Overall, redundantly, I find this show so far to be little more than an Amazon infomercial.  I think the produceres are trying to make it too many things at once, none of which are actually landing.  Accessible, we're not Project Runway, we use designers not sewers, we have big prize money (they will be that I guess).  It's just like a designer accused of using too many techniques or features; they're told to edit, edit, edit.  I would suggest same for MTC.

Edited by SuprSuprElevated
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On 4/12/2020 at 7:12 AM, dleighg said:

Indeed, that was embarrassing.

I seem to recall folks here saying that the winning designs were surpisingly hard to find on Amazon. I thought it was amusing that the show explicitly showed typing "making the cut store" into the Amazon search bar 🙂

Yeah, but when you do that it STILL doesn’t bring you right to the clothes from these designers. It brings you to a page that’s “inspired” (or something) with OTHER designers stuff. You have to realize there’s a small circle at the top of the page to click to get to the winning looks, which is so stupid. Even Amazon knows those clothes aren’t worth anything. 

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Meanwhile, what in the fuck was Heidi wearing?  I guess the orange was supposed to reflect some of the colorful parts of Tokyo but it just looked like a shapeless, tacky dress.  

**ooops, orange tacky was the next show.  still her looks this season are awful***

Edited by sasha206
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On 4/11/2020 at 8:36 PM, RealReality said:

Wouldn't we all collectively roll our eyes if Martha refused to design an all black or all monochrome outfit?

I was trying to remember her name! I was thinking this would have been Martha's challenge since it was supposed to be about color.

I looked at her website and the clothes seemed to be well-sewn, so I think whoever did the research on contestants just assumed she could sew.

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As a Tim Gunn non-fan, I hate that he's such a big part of this show. He's gone beyond just a mentor and is pretty much a co-host now. Even as a mentor, he doesn't do anything more than give serious/concerned facial expressions. Don't even get me started on the Heidi and Tim date segment BS. Puke...

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All I could think of while viewing Rinat's hideous outfit was my Mom telling me in grade school not to wear blue and green at the same time, because they don't go together.

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On 4/11/2020 at 3:12 PM, Sesquipedalia said:

I enjoyed the runway show this episode, but for a lot of them I couldn't tell the difference between the "accessible" piece and the "showstopper." 

 

This has been my issue since episode 1.  Not only can't I tell the difference, if I actually had to guess which outfit was runway and which was "accessible" I think I'd be wrong at least 75% of the time. 

I liked Ji's print.  That, along with Sander's red & black print were the best uses of the fabric printing.  Johnny's honeycomb/flower idea was good in theory, but just didn't come out as expected.  I think his idea to switch it to a shirt, and use the sheer black, was a great save.   While I agree it was Sabato's turn to go, I'll miss him. 

I understand the frustrations with Esther never doing anything but black.  But, at the same time, I can't reconcile the judges saying in one breath that the designers need to move out of their "comfort zones", while in the next breath criticizing designs because they don't see the designer in that look.  Seems a bit contradictory to me.  Esther's brand is black on black on black on black.  They knew that when she was chosen.  She obviously has a customer base for it.  I respected her decision to stay with her brand, her "signature" look. 

Was Heidi's opening outfit - flared plaid pants, baggy white & red shirt - streetwear???  Looks more boho chic country club to me.  I guess I don't understand "streetwear" at all. 

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