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Small Talk: Don't Tell Jeffrey!


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Late to the party on the Barefoot Contessa although I watch the show now and then and have made some of her recipes.  chessiegal, your trip sounds magical.  And why did I think Jeffrey had a different last name than Ina?  I need to pay better attention.

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Yes, keep us posted on your trip.  I'll be very curious about the QM2...that sounds like an interesting trip.  I like the idea that you can cruise over to England and then, if you want, fly back.  Regarding the formal nights:  we've cruised on Holland America to Alaska and Princess along the New England coast and the Canadian maritimes.  Formal night was interesting.  My husband brought along a suit for the first cruise; for the second, he brought a sports jacket. We had people at our table wearing all kinds of clothes (even t-shirts with corny expressions on them).  I discovered that I could wear a black sheath or black dress pants and a black tank top with black sparkly sweater.  So it will be interesting to hear if the QM2 requires formal attire (and doesn't care about the nuts showing up in the he said/she said T-shirts!!)

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They sure encourage formal wear on the QM2. I have a friend who took it last year. She wore dressy black pants and sparkly tops on formal nights, which is what I was going to do until my husband said he was taking his tux (bought for his youngest daughter's wedding, and hasn't worn since), so I thought I'd look for some formal wear, and found some good bargains. Another friend said she and her husband were very disappointed on a recent cruise about how casually people dressed on formal night. We took a Carnival cruise several years ago, and the only people they turned away on formal nights were wearing shorts. But lots of people not formal.

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OMGosh, I came here today specifically to find out when chessiegal sails for Paris, and she's already in the high waves!  As a matter of fact, she might be getting her first gaze at Paris as we speak.  How long is the sail over? I loved chessie's posts and her excitement about going over there, but there wasn't a hint of boasting about it, so typical of chessie.  I hope that she and Mr. Chess have the time of their lives and get to see everything they hoped to see.

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On 5/24/2016 at 5:43 AM, Lura said:

OMGosh, I came here today specifically to find out when chessiegal sails for Paris, and she's already in the high waves!  As a matter of fact, she might be getting her first gaze at Paris as we speak.  How long is the sail over? I loved chessie's posts and her excitement about going over there, but there wasn't a hint of boasting about it, so typical of chessie.  I hope that she and Mr. Chess have the time of their lives and get to see everything they hoped to see.

Thanks, Lura. We docked in Southampton at 7 am today. The crossing was 8 days. It was wonderful. We went to shows every night after dinner. We had 4 formal nights and Mr. Chess got to wear the tux he bought for his youngest daughter's wedding 4 times. We're in London now for 6 nights. We're taking the chunnel to France next week, first to Normandy, then Paris, then Provence and home. We got lots of walking in today, and I need it after all those desserts on the QM2! Can't say enough good things about the QM2. We're already planning another trip.

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Chessiegal, I hope you love Paris-I only got to be there for one day, but I fell in love immediately and I'm dying to go back.  Lovely.  It was just lovely.  And even better, no one scoffed at my high school French pronunciation!

(I should add that I was expecting massive piles of dog poo based on comments from friends and others over the years, and I didn't see any, LOL)

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I went into my first visit to Paris having heard, "Eh, I didn't really care for it" feedback from a few people, too, but I was firmly in the camp of the majority who said they loved it.  The city is like one big living museum.  So much to see and do - and eat - and so nice to plop down in a park for people watching.  For major cities in that part of the world, it's probably my third-favorite destination, as I love London and Amsterdam so much, but Paris is the one that most often makes me stop in the middle of my day, look around, and marvel, "I can't believe where I am."

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I've only been to Paris once but that week was so peaceful and serene (stayed in the 7th arrondissement).  Chessie--be sure to see the Eiffel Tower at night at the top of the hour when the lights start twinkling like mad.

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We asked our travel agent to book tickets for the Eiffel Tower, and I don't think it's after dark. The days are so long right now. We're busy in London doing all our pre-booked visits. We went to Tower of London and the Eye yesterday (my Fitbit said I walked 9.4 miles), today we went to Westminster Abbey - impressive. We paid our respects to Queen Elizabeth I, and walked over the graves of lots of people. We had an unplanned visit to Trafalgar Square in search of a "Take Away" lunch that we ate in St. James Park. And I am loving FN UK.

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Chessie--be sure to see the Eiffel Tower at night at the top of the hour when the lights start twinkling like mad.

I thinks the tower is so beautiful at dusk when it's first lit, and something very close to Vegas-style garish when it gets dark and the lights start blinking.  Yet very much enjoyable to watch it from Trocadero - once.

Speaking of beautiful sights at dusk, in London I love to cross the Thames at dusk and look back at the houses of parliament.

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I didn't enjoy Paris.  Well, I loved the food, the art, the architecture, the history, but found the people as rude as the stereotype.  They didn't realize I speak French and could understand what they were saying.   I found the people in the countryside and smaller cities much nicer.

But I will make one foodie recommendation.  Berthillion Glace is legendary ice cream, with one main location, and also sold in shops throughout the city. Given the season, you are there at the perfect time for frais de bois (wild strawberry).  Eat some every chance you get.

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After visiting St. Paul's Cathedral this morning, we had lunch at Jaime Oliver's Barbecoa. It was very good. The food was excellent - I had he best sea bass I've ever tasted. Presentations and sides were different than I've ever seen. The decor, service, and food are obviously well thought out. Glad we did the lunch splur.

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We made it to France! We took the Eurostar from London to Paris this morning. Our travel agent booked us one step up from coach so we'd have more leg room. Much to our surprise, it came with continental breakfast, much appreciated as we didn't eat until dinner tonight. We changed trains (and stations via Metro) to take a train to Caen, where we rented a car and drove to Bayeux. What a nice change from a week in busy London. Bayeux tapestry tomorrow, and then D-Day beaches later this week. We had a nice dinner at Taverna du Ducs - my husband's beef bourguignon was wonderful. 

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33 minutes ago, chessiegal said:

We made it to France! We took the Eurostar from London to Paris this morning. Our travel agent booked us one step up from coach so we'd have more leg room. Much to our surprise, it came with continental breakfast, much appreciated as we didn't eat until dinner tonight. We changed trains (and stations via Metro) to take a train to Caen, where we rented a car and drove to Bayeux. What a nice change from a week in busy London. Bayeux tapestry tomorrow, and then D-Day beaches later this week. We had a nice dinner at Taverna du Ducs - my husband's beef bourguignon was wonderful. 

It sounds like you're having a wonderful trip, and you're bringing back fond memories of our  visit to Normandy. We did the same as you - took the train from Paris to Caen and rented a car. Caen was our home base. We loved that city and hope to return. If you're there on Friday, there's an amazing farmers market on the Fossées Saint Julien. We had a great time shopping there for things for a picnic - sausages, pate, cheese, bread, olives, and the most delicious apples I've ever tasted. Are you visiting Giverny? I think that was my favorite place we visited in Normandy. The gardens are spectacular. I bet even more so now than in the fall (we were there in October). I'm sure you're enjoying all the wonderful butter, cream, and cheese that's made in Normandy. And mussels. I had the most delicious mussels of my entire life in Caen.
Enjoy yourselves. I'm looking forward to reading more about your trip.

 

Friday market - Caen.jpg

Edited by ShoePrincess
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ShoePrincess, wow, that is a gorgeous pic. If I ever make it to Paris again, I am taking fresh fruit and veggie pics. And those little signs are too charming. 

 

Chessiegal, I am loving your updates! Glad you are savoring every moment! 

Edited by Spunkygal
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Thanks, Spunkygal. That's the market in Caen, not Paris, but I also have lots of photos of Paris markets and food shop windows.  Especially pictures of macarons, one of my favorite treats. Chessiegirl's posts have put me in a French mood. That's why I'm making an apricot tart for dessert.

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I have fond memories of a ride on the Eurostar from Paris to London about eight years ago.  A British couple, a French woman, and another American woman were the only other occupants of my car, and after some good food and even better wine was served, the lot of us wound up gathering around and talking the rest of the trip (which was longer than normal, as the chunnel was only recently re-opened following a fire, and only partially and running slower).  They were all interesting, intelligent people, and it was like a salon on wheels. 

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Question for those of you who have train traveled in France. We had all our train tickets when we left home. When we got to Paris, we had tickets from the Paris St. Lazare station to Caen. We were told to take our already purchased tickets to the office and get them validated, which we did. The office was on a separate floor from the trains. At no point before we boarded or when we were on the train were we asked to show the tickets. Is this normal? I almost felt like we were on the honor system.

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I never had to go to an office to validate my train tickets, but did "punch" them in a yellow box just before boarding.  I believe it is on the honour system - inspectors may randomly check for tickets, and there are fines if you don't have a validated ticket. 

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The "validation" puts a time stamp on the ticket so it can't be used again (many of the ticket classes sold are open-ended rather than dated).  That's why you don't validate it until just before you board; you might change your mind, the next train might be full and you have to wait for another one.....

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We've never had our tickets checked when we've traveled by train in Europe, but I have seen other people have theirs checked. I guess they do it randomly, and we've never been the ones.

I have so not so fond memories of the St. Lazare station. I've always had a fear of falling on an escalator. We were on our way up to where the trains come in when I lost my balance and fell. Fortunately, someone hit the stop button right away, and a couple of very nice young men came to my assistance. I told them I was fine and that they didn't need to call paramedics because I didn't want us to miss our train to Caen. When we got to Caen and checked into our b&b, I took my shirt off to see if I'd actually hurt anything. My back looked like I'd had a close encounter with Freddy Kruger. I no longer use escalators in airports or train stations.

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Well, this is enlightening. So we had a ticket for a train that left the station at a particular time, class, and coach number (and seat, which someone on our car said didn't mean anything - open seating in your coach), and looking at the time stamp it appears we could have taken any train on May 31. Good to know. When we leave Caen on Sunday, we'll get our ticket validated before boarding?

So far the weather in Normandy has been disappointing - never above 57 deg, cloudy and rainy, overcast, or drizzling. I was expecting 70's. We had better weather in London. My husband says when we get to Paris on Sunday the prediction is for 70's and no rain, and when we get to Avignon after that it will be in the upper 80's.

We enjoyed Bayeux today, our home base. Beautiful cathedral, and the Bayeux tapestry was fascinating, as told from the Norman point of view. A friend recommended  le Pommiers restaurant near the cathedral, and it was wonderful. Cozy fire, delicious food.

D-Day beaches tomorrow, so I can see where my Dad landed on Omaha  Beach D-Day + 20, the main reason I wanted to come to Normandy.

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We visited Omaha Beach and the American cemetery yesterday, and Utah Beach today. The beaches and Bayeux are getting more and more over run with re-enactors. We're amused that the ones dressed in American uniforms are mostly French. I got some macarons from a recommended patisserie and mon Dieu they were nothing like anything I've had in the US - absolute heaven. This morning we had breakfast at a small shop and my husband had his first Croque Madame and has decided it's breakfast for him from now on. I had a mushroom and cheese omelet that was a great disappointment - I make better ones myself. I'll give it a try again in Paris. We visited the Sat morning market. I was somewhat taken aback, not sure why, to see live chickens, ducks, and rabbits. The weather finally got warm enough (and the sun came out for the first time) to have a picnic lunch by the sea. It's been warmer in Oslo and Copenhagen than it's been since we've been here. What's up with that? And we mastered a laundromat, something we are quite proud of. We leave Caen by train for Paris tomorrow.

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I saw on the news that there might be some flooding in Paris. I hope it doesn't hinder your travel plans. 

I'm enjoying reading about your travels.

Edited by ariel
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The weather cleared in the late pm while we were in the Eiffel Tower. We bought skip the line tickets with a tour company, which was worth it once it opened again after they closed it soon after our tour arrived because a thoughtless person left a package unattended on the 2nd level. I'm not a fan of heights, but I finally got out to the rail. My husband went to the top, and reported I would not have been able to endure it, even he felt a little - whoa, this is high up!

We are blown away by Paris. With all the pictures I've seen, they do no justice to the city. The Seine is receding, but is still above flood stage - no river cruises and roads down by the river  are under water.

We're already looking forward to returning, and I'm vowing to re-learn enough French to interpret a menu.

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Yesterday we went to Notre Dame, Sainte Chapelle, and Conciergerie. We had lunch at restaurant that had wonderful carrot soup. We did a walk around the Latin Quarter. We had some Berthillon ice cream. I had strawberry and my husband had chocolate. Very good. And we've been doing a lot of walking. On Monday my Fitbit said I walked 10.95 miles, and Tuesday 11.17 miles.

Please tell me what I am doing wrong about finding a classically prepared omelet like I've seen Jacque Pepin do and Ina did on one of her shows with another chef. I ordered one at a bistro tonight and it was just as disappointing as the one I had in Bayeux. I'm ready to give up. Maybe we're not eating at the right places, but we've had more so so food in Paris than I expected.

We went to the Musee d'Orsay today to find they are still closed because of the flooding on the Seine. We have tickets for a 9 am admission to the Louvre tomorrow and are keeping hope it will be open. The weather has warmed up, 75 deg yesterday and 79 today. We went to the Jacequemart-Andre museum today. The home it's housed in is amazing. They're having a plain air impressionists visiting exhibit which was very nice,. We also did a nice walk down the Champs-Elysees this morning.

And - we were confronted by a Roma with the gold ring scam. Only she offered to give it to me rather than sell it. We refused.

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Chessiegal, I get so excited everytime I see you've posted an update! Thanks for taking the time to share your adventures with us.

I had a so-so omelet in a bistro near Arc de Triomphe but even more egregious, I once had a terrible creme brûlée in Paris. It did not pass the "crack test" and the custard was grainy. However, the patisseries more than made up for it. Not just the croissants and baguettes, but the quiche! Have you had a crepe yet from a street vendor? Yum! 

Also, are you going to Montmartre? I have two sweet little watercolors from one of the street artists that I so adore and enjoy...both landscapes of a country setting. They may be my favorite travel souvenirs ever. 

Will you have time to keep checking back at the d'Orsay before you leave? Is the l'Orangerie open? 

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41 minutes ago, Spunkygal said:

Chessiegal, I get so excited everytime I see you've posted an update! Thanks for taking the time to share your adventures with us.

I had a so-so omelet in a bistro near Arc de Triomphe but even more egregious, I once had a terrible creme brûlée in Paris. It did not pass the "crack test" and the custard was grainy. However, the patisseries more than made up for it. Not just the croissants and baguettes, but the quiche! Have you had a crepe yet from a street vendor? Yum! 

Also, are you going to Montmartre? I have two sweet little watercolors from one of the street artists that I so adore and enjoy...both landscapes of a country setting. They may be my favorite travel souvenirs ever. 

Will you have time to keep checking back at the d'Orsay before you leave? Is the l'Orangerie open? 

We stopped in a patisseries near our hotel today and had vanilla and framboise mini-macorons, both delicious. We don't have time to go to Montmartre, though that may be for our next visit. The Louvre's website says it will be open tomorrow. We get breakfast with our hotel, which we love, which starts at 7:30, so we are planning on breakfast and to Metro near the Louvre and hope for the best. Hoping we can see d'Orsay after that.

Did I mention our hotel has an ice machine? Wow!!!!!

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I remember in Italy asking the concierge at our hotel where we could find ice.  He muttered "You Americans".   The ultimate insult to a Canadian. 

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(edited)

The Louvre was open today, so we got to see (some of) that. After resting in Jardin des Tuiliers (sp?), we walked to Rue de Cler for lunch, and I finally got my classic French omelet. We walked by a bistro and I saw someone eating a properly made omelet, so in we went. It was Le Petit Cler. I asked my husband if he wanted to go to Musee d'Orsay after lunch, but he said he was "museumed out". So after regrouping, we ended up going to Montmarte. We didn't go into the church, just enjoyed the views. The Seine has receded a lot since we got here Sunday, I would say at least 5 feet. We saw the first commercial traffic on it today, not much, but a few boats. We have an 8:37 am train to Avignon tomorrow. I've had mixed experiences with Parisians. Some are very nice, and I could tell others were barely tolerating us. I've had 2 men give up their seats on the Metro for me. Makes me feel old but that's okay.We'll definitely be back again.

Edited by chessiegal
Because we arrived Sunday, not Monday.
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We're spending our last night in Avignon, headed to Marseilles tomorrow to spend the night at an airport hotel to fly home Tuesday through Hamburg to BWI. I hate to fly, but I am really ready to go home.

Provence has been fun. The bullet train was great, but what is it with the French and trains? We had our tickets that had car and seat number, and in this case meant nothing other than we were in a 1st class car, and when we got to one, they scanned our tickets and gave us coupons that had our "new" seat numbers. I have a friend who commented on how brave my husband was to drive with the crazy French when we were in Normandy, and didn't understand what she was talking about. However, first morning out of the hotel in Avignon, within 3 minutes my husband got lectured and yelled at by a bus driver, and got beeped at and the finger by a driver. They are crazy drivers here.

Our travel agent booked us at a really nice hotel, Cloitre Saint Louis, which was once a Jesuit seminary. It's just inside the city walls. We've enjoyed exploring Avignon, spent 1 day at Pont du Gard - impressive aqueduct plus great museum (and good ice cream!), another day in Arles (Roman ruins), and were there on market day but we entered at the junky goods end and my husband bailed before we got to the food end. Today we went to Les Baux, and climbed around the old Medieval town - great views. And I have to say one of the best dinners so far is the baguette, cheese, apples, and wine we're enjoying on our balcony over the garden of the hotel.

I miss my kitty. I know she has been in good hands. She's at home, with our neighbor's daughter taking care of her every day. Our neighbor is a cat person, and assured me she would make sure Jinglebelle got social time. She's a very social and affectionate cat - hope she remembers (and forgives) me when we get home.

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The first time I went away for a month, I worried how my cats were going to react.  Sure, they'd get daily visits from Grandma or Grandpa, and Grandma would spend the night with them once or twice a week, but that was a long time to mostly just have each other; I'd usually limited myself to two weeks.  They were fine.  They all but velcroed themselves to me my first night home, but they were fine.  Every time I came home from a long trip, I think it took mere days for them to forget I'd even been gone.

So I'm sure your Jinglebelle will forgive you - after some minor penance, perhaps.  As a kid, we had one cat who'd bite our ankles when we returned from a trip, but then be cuddling us an hour later. 

Edited by Bastet
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Sounds like a wonderful trip you've had!  Glad you were able to get your proper omelet!  Just reading about the baguette and cheese makes me long for some!

Quick cooking question for everyone here:  I volunteered to make my cousin's birthday cake and she likes white cake/white frosting.  Does anyone have a good recipe or tips for either?  I usually make a cake with something going on flavor wise, like chocolate or coconut, or just something more, and I've searched and found a few that sound promising, but I trust experience more.  

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@chessie:  I really enjoyed reading your posts.  When I read about you on the platform of the Eiffel Tower...shudder...I think you were very brave (I had to carefully shuffle to the down elevator immediately).  Rue Cler--I spent a lot of time around there (that's where our fun waiter, when I asked for my steak to be medium, said, "You Americans!")  Gosh, you really traveled around. In Avignon, did you go to the Pope's Palace (and see the room where the French revolutionaries lopped off the statues' heads)?  It's been so much fun "traveling" with you via your posts.  I guess you're home sweet home by now.  Post some more :>)

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Thanks for everyone's kind remarks. We got home last evening around 8 pm, which put our bodies at 2 am. The trip home was uneventful. I had heard horror stories about the Frankfort airport, but we didn't have any problems getting to our connecting flight. We were on coach Lufthansa from Marseilles, which was fine. They fed us and gave us beer or wine in addition to other beverages. We were in Premium class on the Condor flight to BWI, what I gather is a low cost airline owned by Lufthansa. We had plenty of legroom, they fed us 3 times, gave us personal video boxes for watching movies, tv, etc. We were almost an hour late, but no big deal, and our luggage was there when we needed it.

Our 2 experiences driving in France gave us confidence. Between Google maps on our iPhones and good road signage, we got around just fine. Great thing about round-abouts is that they give you a second chance, which we needed on occasion. I was impressed we managed to get from Avignon to the airport on back roads as we had no idea how to use the toll roads.

annzee, we didn't go in the Pope's Palace, I think we had seen enough cathedrals by that point.  The 1st day in Avignon, Les Mistrels were in full force, it had to have been blowing 40 mph, but the next time we walked up there, the winds had calmed and it was much more pleasant.

It definitely was a broadening experience, and it was wonderful what a great team my husband and I made (other than being reminded he's not a big fan of eating lunch, some days he forgets to), so sometimes I have to say - lunch time!

It hit me when I went out today to get our mail, and stock up the fridge what a relief it was to be able to understand the language. I heard my brain give a sigh of relief.

Jinglebelle has rarely left my side since we got home. I think all is forgiven.

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Welcome home, Chessiegal! I so enjoyed your "journal" entries and am glad you had a safe trip. I wish Ina had invited you over for cocktails. "How fun would that be?" No matter how dysfunctional our country can be at times, it is always good to get home. Enjoy your snuggles with Jinglebelle!

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Welcome home, chessiegal!  I remember being surprised the first time we returned from Europe by how fast life moves in the U.S., from the traffic to everything else, and I wondered whether that surprised you as well.

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Lura, the QM2 was certainly relaxing. But I found London to be downright frantic. Could be we were getting an early start and were out on the street and Underground with commuters. The weekend we were there was quieter. Bayeux was a nice slower pace, and a nice change of pace from London. Paris had plenty of hustle. Question - what time do people start work in Paris? I ask because the day we went to the Louvre, we had tickets for 9 am admission. We were on the Metro at 8 am, and it was fairly empty. Avignon seemed busy to me, and the drivers in Provence at times seemed downright crazy. So in general, I didn't sense a more laid back pace, except at meals. I was glad we read Rick Steve's info that once you get a table, it's yours for the duration, so you have to ask for the check. 

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Thanks for the info, Chessiegal. So much seems to have changed in the years since I was there.  You certainly seem to have gotten around to most of the major sights and to have made good use of your time.  I only have one more question if you don't mind.  Did you get to Poilane Bakery?  (Drool!)  :)

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No, I really didn't seek out any specific place other than the Berthilde ice cream. I made a list if places/eateries to try and find, and left it at home (along with a small camera I bought specifically for the trip - it fell on the floor while I was packing and got knocked under the bed). So I ended up taking pictures the way most people did - with my smartphone.

I was surprised by how many places had Caesar salad, and the variations on how it was made. One place had these huge green berries with stems that tasted like capers, and looked like capers on steroids. I'd never seen anything like it.

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Chessiegal, you may have had caper berries. Please google and see if that's what you saw in the salad. I had never heard of them before until the movie Bridget Jones' Diary. Ha! When she made the blue soup and there was something gross bubbling in another pot and Mark Darcy said they could have caper berry gravy. I guess caper berries are popular in Europe! 

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From the sublime to the ridiculous!  From a yummy-looking French caperberry salad to a peek into one of the kinds of weeks that shouldn't happen.  It started with the death of my favorite brother from a sinister disease called COPD, a heart-lung disaster that takes longer to die from than lung cancer and has no cure.  Tom was born on my third birthday, which always made him super special.

Yesterday, I took a little trip at home and wound up with broken toes and feet.  I WAS IN THE E.R. FOR 9 HOURS!   We're having Betty Crocker Frozen Chicken Pot Pies for dinner!  Hope everybody has a safe and happy weekend.

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My condolences on the loss of your brother Tom, Luna.  One of my uncles died from COPD nearly 10 years ago; he wasn't even 60.

And ouch on the broken toes and feet!  That must be a mighty inconvenient injury.  I hope you can crawl under the covers for a while after the week from hell.

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Lura, my deepest sympathy on the loss of your dear brother. Yes, COPD just never gives up. I had a dear family friend who struggled with it for years and it is cruel. I hope happy memories of your brother bring some consolation. 

And then to have the foot injury too, wow, I know they can't do anything much for broken toes but do you need foot surgery? As Bastet says, hope you can stay off your feet this weekend and rest. 

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Thank you, Bastet and Spunkygal for your thoughtful posts.  No, no surgery is required.  Toes are so little that they can't very well fit into casts.  I'd like to name my little toe on the right foot, though, if anyone is inspired.  It's swollen to a humungous size and is all black, and the little tiny toenail can hardly be seen.  It's the funniest looking thing!  It reminds me of a snail without feelers.

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Lura, maybe a pun on escargot since it resembles a snail? Ina would approve. After all, how funny is that? Maybe after a toddy I can think of something.k

escar-toe?

Edited by Spunkygal
Added a brilliant thought, heh.
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