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S07.E09: All Inclusive


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I am confused about the sewing machine issue. Christine was saying it was “her machine”. Why did she have to use that particular machine? It looked like several had black thread.

Like others have said, it's likely because of how she had set the tensions. If they were all using basic cotton broadcloth, it might not make a difference, but the wide variety of very difficult fabrics used means a wide variety of very tricky tensions to manage. If I had got my machine adjusted *just right* and someone like Irina just appropriated it I would be tempted to casually trip and in the process cut off her hair.

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7 minutes ago, Cyranetta said:

If I had got my machine adjusted *just right* and someone like Irina just appropriated it

what's to say Irina didn't also "adjust" the machine herself? So I wonder if for Christine it needing it to be *her* machine was more about making a point (which I totally agree with); not wanting to let Irina get away with it by just starting over with a new machine.

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3 hours ago, bobbyjoe said:

The producer's fix is so in on Michelle-- falsely hyping even her objectively terrible looks to the point of absurdity and keeping her 'til the end if not maybe even the win-- that my only surprise is that when Alyssa had to add that where-did-that-come-from "thank you, Michelle, you're great" as Michelle left the runway she didn't also slip her a big envelope full of cash.

I agree - the fix is in for Michelle. And AR will hang around until the finals, too.

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If AR had won for his absurd Technicolor Dreamcoat smock I would have punched this show out. None of the gender neutral or fluid people I know would be caught dead in that or Michelles ugly ass blood-soaked granny mish mash. no1-smiley.gif

Thank God Christina is through playing Anne's game. 

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Damn Irina for making me side with Michelle on something. 

Michelle’s thing was hideous. I’d have offed her instead of Sean; I liked Sean’s. I’m glad Christina won. 

Ann’s speech patterns are really annoying. She talks like a chihuahua on speed. 

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As much as I don't care for Ann, she has to be commended on not cracking up when she told the designers how good the previous runway was. It was not. 

I'm surprised no one went for a 70s rock vibe or Hedi Slimane look. Skinny jeans, a metallic top, leather jacket, completely gender free and cool. Put their own twist on it and call it a day. There was no sex appeal or fun. If you saw someone in Michele's look you'd think they were depressed. 

The judging was whatever because I think that is the same attitude many of the designers have towards it now. Sean even acknowledges he never got into the rhythm. They just aren't hungry and pushing themselves. These are all one day challenges and there are too many instances of the designers being done early. Nothing going down the runway has any impact. I'm watching out of habit at this point. Anyone can win and anyone can go home.   

It was awful to see AR's from the inside because it showed absolutely no tailoring. It was a boxy shell with applique. 

Dmitry's was a whole bunch of no, from the purposeless buttons to the strange crisscross chest flaps to the random back cutout.  He definitely deserved to be in the bottom. 

Christina's was perfectly fine for the win. It wasn't offensive, wasn't exciting and it was well made. Low bars lately for the win. 

For a gender neutral challenge I would be interested in seeing them have to make the look twice, one for a man and one for a woman and have them both walk the runway together.  Do they both look good or appropriate? 

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9 minutes ago, heyjupiter said:

For a gender neutral challenge I would be interested in seeing them have to make the look twice, one for a man and one for a woman and have them both walk the runway together.  Do they both look good or appropriate?

That's what I thought that the challenge would be!   But if not that, then there are other examples of gender neutral clothes/styles that they could have referenced beyond a big coat.

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15 hours ago, LennieBriscoe said:

I liked all the looks tonight.

But for me, the best moment was hearing APR call Dmitry "Deema." Deema! 

Michelle has called him Deema too.  But I agree it’s much more magical for someone not-Michelle to do it, bec she’s so affected.

14 hours ago, auntlada said:

Michelle's coat/whatever didn't look like Grandma's curtains or wallpaper to me. It looked like Grandma's dirty housedress.

And whichever judge thought Anthony Ryan's coat/dress/whatever looked sexy has lost his/her/their mind. There was nothing at all sexy about that. If it weren't for the hideous yellow trim and the hideous fabric, it would have looked like a painter's smock -- something you use to cover up.

I thought Sean's didn't go far enough with the buckles. I wanted more.

It cracked me up that 2 people compared Michelle’s “painting” to some kind of crime scene.

The only thing sexy about AR’s design was his model.  Thumbs up for Merica!

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5 hours ago, Jenilane6 said:

Fashion has never been about what is comfortable.  Sean’s garment LOOKED great on the model, would have looked great on Johnny Weir, Heidi Klum and RuPaul.  So that is my definition of    gender neutral fashion.

idk... you mentioned three QUEENS. Just because some have penises and some vaginas doesn't change that all three dress feminine. Johnny Weir would effing rock shit that not every woman would be brave enough to wear. 

I guess I don't get the "gender neutral" 

To me gender neutral is.. what Schwarzenegger, RuPaul, Kate Middleton and Ellen would equally look good in. In a runway interpretation of course. I'm more confused about the chafing straps comment. It's runway. It's not supposed to be immediately wearable and comfy. It's an idea of a trend, exaggerated for later deconstruction and interpretation for H&M store.

but hey inconsistency in calling people out of stuff has been the theme of the season, not inclusion, like Alysa stated.

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2 hours ago, heyjupiter said:

For a gender neutral challenge I would be interested in seeing them have to make the look twice, one for a man and one for a woman and have them both walk the runway together.  Do they both look good or appropriate? 

I thought that there would be a twist, in which the models get switched out at the last minute for someone of a different gender, but more or less the same measurements.

And then I remembered what show, with what budget and what level of production creativity, I was watching.

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3 hours ago, heyjupiter said:

If you saw someone in Michele's look you'd think they were depressed. 

Or blind... but of course the judges fawned all over her "dumpster diving chic" creation. It was a horror.

I think that Deema (hah!) was only safe because his looked SO much better once the X pattern was unbuttoned.

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(edited)

Based on this episode, one might conclude that "gender neutral" means looking like a cosplayer at a Bladerunner convention. 

I don't know, maybe it hits too close to home but this challenge felt exploitative to me.  First there was the big mystery -- "you won't know whether your model is male or female or someone who identifies as neither male or female"   ... Then the designers play guessing games based on the measurements -- Sean says, "Mine must be a boy ... well, born a boy ..."  Then at last the mystery models arrive and the audience is tacitly invited to start guessing their actual genders ...  Sean's model confesses before the camera that she transitioned two years ago ... and I think that's what offended me most.   Cis-gender models are never put in a position where they have to qualify themselves as female, so why was it necessary for Sean's model to "go on the record" as it were?   To titillate the audience?   Finally, to drive home the point that this is not a typical runway, and these are not typical models, they bring in Asia Kate Dillon as the token non-binary judge.   Once again, I find myself questioning why?   Are everyday fashion experts and guest judges unqualified to judge gender-neutral fashions?  Is fashion dependent on where the model or judge falls on the gender spectrum?   Fashion is supposed to transcend the wearer and the starer regardless of who they are.   By making this ostentatious show of just how "inclusive" Project Runway All-Stars allegedly is (for a single episode), all the show truly accomplished was to underscore how fucking patronizing and phony it is in that regard.  JMO.

Edited by millennium
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7 hours ago, heyjupiter said:

Dmitry's was a whole bunch of no, from the purposeless buttons to the strange crisscross chest flaps to the random back cutout.  He definitely deserved to be in the bottom. 

That reminds me-- was it Dmitry who was with Michelle in Mood when she was giving her "X" on the driver's license thing? If so, did he "borrow" the X (criscross) from her?

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(edited)

Michelle should have been in the bottom two. That look was atrocious, and I absolutely loathed Alyssa telling everyone that Michelle is “so good.” Give her the award already. Sheesh.  From an purely aesthetic aspect, I liked Sean’s look. It was the sexiest. Biddell looked like a costume from Hair the musical. I totally read Dimitri’s look as Bowie during the Glam rock days. I was digging it. I loved Christina’s look and thought it was flattering, and was the only look I’d want to wear irl. 

Edited by Barbara Please
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26 minutes ago, Barbara Please said:

Michelle should have been in the bottom two. That look was atrocious, and I absolutely loathed Alyssa telling everyone that Michelle is “so good.” Give her the award already. Sheesh.  From an purely aesthetic aspect, I liked Sean’s look. It was the sexiest. Biddell looked like a costume from Hair the musical. I totally read Dimitri’s look as Bowie during the Glam rock days. I was digging it. I loved Christina’s look and thought it was flattering, and was the only look I’d want to wear irl. 

I wonder if Dmitry had sold his look as Bowie inspired - maybe done an homage to Bowie with the makeup - if the judges would have changed their minds.

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I'm not really surprised that I pretty much detest every single one of the current crop (at least those I saw on their original seasons) ... after all, they had pretty much all of my favorites over the last two seasons.

That said, I cannot get Irina or Michelle off my screen soon enough but I suspect as many of you suggest I'm stuck with them for the duration. Always thought Michelle was a hack and Irina such a bitch that I couldn't even TRY to like anything she did.

Dmitry is the closest we come to my having someone I actually liked, or more specifically weirdly GREW to really like over time ... but he does not look well at all. He's always had that drawn dour look but until now I found him inexplicably sexy ... now he looks like a vampire on a bender.

I was so disappointed with the gender-neutral challenge results. There was so much more they could have done with them ... 

And not for nothing (and I know he was never a champion so didn't qualify for this) but my all-time favorite Fabio would have ROCKED this challenge. 

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I loved Christina's. As soon as her model came down the runway, I thought that it looked fabulous on him and that I wanted to wear it as well. I'm glad she got the win.

Michelle's was hideous. Hideous. I couldn't believe she wasn't sent home for that dreck. Flowers as a neutral is not a new thing; men have been wearing them for ages now. The whole thing honestly looked to me like a dirty raincoat one would wear when they were outside gardening. And the dye "pattern" on the back of it reminded me of when my friend's baby shit up his back while he was sleeping.

I didn't mind Irina's but I thought for sure the judges would've slammed her for it leaning more traditionally feminine than gender neutral. I think they gave her quite the benefit of the doubt that she was thinking of any gender when she made those skinny pants. I personally think she stayed safely within her wheelhouse, designing for a woman. Which is why I would've put her in the "safe" category. I thought she was being an utter bitch about the sewing machine though. If the designers have "their" machines, why wasn't she on "hers"? Was she just too lazy to re-thread her machine so she popped onto one that she could use right then, to hell with whoever actually needed it? Awful attitude and a reminder of why I never liked her.

I wasn't keen on Dmitry's until I heard his explanation and then I liked it much more. I agree with the poster that said he should've leaned more into the Bowie inspiration and styled his model like so. The useless buttons didn't bother me as much as they bothered Alyssa. They're about as decorative to me as random feathers stuck onto a dress, a la Sean.

I hated Anthony Ryan's look. Gender neutral does not have to be shapeless. I completely agreed when one of the designers said it looked like Anthony Ryan in a sketch. Flat and formless. At least he was well aware that he could've gone home with this one. I would've put him in the bottom with Michelle, with her going home.

I liked Sean's. I thought it was cool. Maybe pinstripes were the wrong choice but I could see pretty much anyone wearing it. And I give him points for not trying to hide the model's body. I wouldn't have sent him home for this. I laughed when the guest judge said something about, what season would you wear this in? They must not be from the Midwest; you could wear that thing on any given day in the spring or fall and it would be weather-appropriate.

I was surprised that Biddell was so proud of his look. Yeah, I guess you could qualify it as gender neutral because any gender could wear jeans and a t-shirt. It just wasn't a particularly innovative design. I didn't mind the lacy t-shirt as much as others did but I think he should've picked a different lace. And I didn't understand that vest at all. Although kudos I guess for avoiding falling into the "jacket" trap that most of the rest of the designers did.

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This season they haven't done any team or partner challenges, have they?  They always bring some more interest, I don't need the drama, but I like when they have to create a cohesive collection or paired looks, something that's bigger than the individual. At the beginning they could have paired international with american winners or something trivial but it could have been fun and added something to the doldrums. 

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(edited)

I suspect many of the designers dislike Anne' s critiques because of their egos. They are All-Stars: they have already won the regular show, or they have their own lines. You often hear them say what they make in real life. So they aren't trying to hear Anne criticize what they already know is cool, edgy, and perfect.  Thing is, 3 of them are going to end up in the bottom EVERY TIME.  Why not look at their designs with a brutally critical eye? Everything can always be made better. Just reading this thread is proof of that.

Edited by Archery
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I just don't understand why Irinia is such a favorite.  To me, her stuff (with the possible exception of this latest oversized coat-thing) always looks like well-sewn trash, bargain basement girly-girl crap you'd see in someplace like Forever 21.  Nomatter how upscale her fabrics are, she always manages to make the result look cheap and tasteless. 

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On 2/28/2019 at 1:43 AM, ratgirlagogo said:

Yes, since it takes a while to re-thread a machine.  They're on a killing time schedule.

Andrae (S2):  "I have rethreaded the overlock machine!"  enormous sigh

apparently he was the only one who could do it.  Those machines are incredibly difficult.

Fabio would have killed this.  He wore dresses himself half the time.

They did a similar challenge, calling it Androgenous in a previous PR All Stars season.  Emilio Sosa won with Bob Fosse-style leather outfits.  He had to make them for male and female models as well.  No big baggy coats.

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11 hours ago, millennium said:

Based on this episode, one might conclude that "gender neutral" means looking like a cosplayer at a Bladerunner convention. 

I don't know, maybe it hits too close to home but this challenge felt exploitative to me.  First there was the big mystery -- "you won't know whether your model is male or female or someone who identifies as neither male or female"   ... Then the designers play guessing games based on the measurements -- Sean says, "Mine must be a boy ... well, born a boy ..."  Then at last the mystery models arrive and the audience is tacitly invited to start guessing their actual genders ...  Sean's model confesses before the camera that she transitioned two years ago ... and I think that's what offended me most.   Cis-gender models are never put in a position where they have to qualify themselves as female, so why was it necessary for Sean's model to "go on the record" as it were?   To titillate the audience?   Finally, to drive home the point that this is not a typical runway, and these are not typical models, they bring in Asia Kate Dillon as the token non-binary judge.   Once again, I find myself questioning why?   Are everyday fashion experts and guest judges unqualified to judge gender-neutral fashions?  Is fashion dependent on where the model or judge falls on the gender spectrum?   Fashion is supposed to transcend the wearer and the starer regardless of who they are.   By making this ostentatious show of just how "inclusive" Project Runway All-Stars allegedly is (for a single episode), all the show truly accomplished was to underscore how fucking patronizing and phony it is in that regard.  JMO.

I wish there was a "Slow Clap" icon that I could use to "like" your post...

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6 hours ago, Barbara Please said:

Michelle should have been in the bottom two. That look was atrocious, and I absolutely loathed Alyssa telling everyone that Michelle is “so good.” Give her the award already. Sheesh.  From an purely aesthetic aspect, I liked Sean’s look. It was the sexiest. Biddell looked like a costume from Hair the musical. I totally read Dimitri’s look as Bowie during the Glam rock days. I was digging it. I loved Christina’s look and thought it was flattering, and was the only look I’d want to wear irl. 

I also liked Sean's creation.  I wasn't totally bowled over by Dima's coat, but I don't feel it should have been in the bottom.  

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I have no idea what Isaac had so against Sean's garment.  I kind of liked it.  As Mrs. Weinstein commented, the back was just lovely.  The underarm strap was a little awkward, but that could have been improved later. 

One thing that did come out in the judging was that it was all over the map.  Some designs were rated high by some judges but low by others.  Alyssa even said one couldn't win because she gave it a very low score.  When they had their runway discussions after sending safe Biddell away, I could not figure out who was in the top three and who was in the bottom three just based on judges comments.   I still didn't really have a clue until after they started deliberating among themselves.

When the judging is so split like that, I'd like to see a non-elimination episode.  Similarly, when the judges can't decide who to send home, because both--or all three--of the bottom looks are so bad, then send 'em all packing.

I was beyond amused to see Dmitry's shock--shock I tell you--at being bottom three.  That was kind of delicious.  And Irina?  Wow.  Just........wow.

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21 hours ago, heyjupiter said:

For a gender neutral challenge I would be interested in seeing them have to make the look twice, one for a man and one for a woman and have them both walk the runway together.  Do they both look good or appropriate? 

Not wanting to be rude, but gender neutral includes many more gender identities than "man" and "woman" - I think the point was supposed to be to design for people who don't identify as either male or female. I can't say I fully understand being gender-fluid or non-binary or whatever the kids are calling it these days (that's meant to be humorous and not offensive), but I believe this challenge was supposedly intended to respect differently gendered people.

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I’m sorry, but I hated all of it, and I mean all of it. What the hell with all of the giant fugly coats?!? I agree with Biddell - a lot of spaceman outfits. His was stupid and ugly too though.

Watching this, I think the best gender neutral outfit was what Sean was wearing - jeans and a long T-shirt, but of course that’s not fashion. I guess Christine had the best look, but to me her model still looked absolutely buried under all that fabric just like most everybody else.....I just really hated this runway. Man this show is really circling the drain.......

It’s too bad Brandon Kee isn’t on this season - this was like his perfect challenge.....

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On 2/28/2019 at 7:05 AM, Ellaria Sand said:

Christina's look was elegant and sophisticated. She deserved the win.  Alternatively, Dmitri's silver trenchcoat wasn't particularly interesting. He seems uninterested in the entire competition.

Dmitri has seemed disinterested in the competition ever since Michelle won for the look that totally ripped off his style.  He seemed relatively gracious about it at the time, but I think he was disappointed they rewarded Michelle and disappointed that Michelle never owned it.

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(edited)
On 3/1/2019 at 3:02 AM, Ashforth said:

That being said, I am not a fan of "they" as a pronoun for an individual person. "They" is plural. We are in dire need of an evolution of our language to create a useful gender-neutral pronoun. We've done it before! American English is a living, growing language. I'm old enough to remember when "Ms." was controversial, because a woman was supposed to be defined by her marital status - Miss or Mrs., missy! I'm hopeful that we'll arrive at a suitable pronoun soon.

Thats what they did in Sweden. They added 'hen' as a gender neutral pronoun ('han' and 'hon' are the male and female pronouns) a few years ago. The challenge for English is probably to get everyone to agree to one suitable word.

Edited by Aulty
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(edited)
1 hour ago, ElectricBoogaloo said:

France has il (he), elle (she), and on (singular pronoun with no gender specified - when I learned French, I was told it was the similar to "one," as in "one does not simply walk into Mordor").

In French, the "on" is used in diverse ways :

One as a "we", as in "On arrive dans 5 minutes !", which means : ""we'll be there in five minutes !"

Another one as an "anonymous" way, as if we speak about an "anonymous" person....... Some examples : "on dirait qu'il va pleuvoir" means "It looks like it will be raining" / "On est de mauvaise humeur ce matin ?" means : "are YOU in a bad mood this morning ?", but we want to say it more like a fact than an "accusation". The "on" can also be used in case of "word on the street"...

It's as difficult to explain it than ares the diverse meanings of "(to) get" 🤣 (Yes, it's logical for a born English speaker, but it's a "concept" that has to be learn by foreign langages people, I promise ! And even if I perfectly get it (lol), it's still not easy to explain)

 

Edited by Diane Mars
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It's all Greek to me! 🤪

Just now, Token said:

I think the biggest problem in this challenge was.... what even is gender neutral clothing???  Everyone wears pants.  Everyone wears shorts.  Everyone wears all colours these days.  Everyone wears tops & t-shirts.  So, what is a neutral outfit?  It was a ridiculous challenge designed purely so that the show could go "look, we're so modern and progressive".  In reality, it didn't work and produced some stupid results.

Agree

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What is not gender neutral clothing? A frilly pink Disney gown? A three piece suit? By putting gender neutral folks into a fashion box of gender neutral clothing is kinda offensive and does not speak to the true nature and mentality of gender neutralism. By taking a trans woman and putting her in gender neutral clothing it denies her woman hood. Clothing doesn’t define the gender. Clothing defines how one wants to feel and present themselves that day. “Gender neutral clothing” is the most simplistic way to think of fashion for this group  

as witnessed by the guy who wore the ball gown w masculineish top to oscars  is he gender neutral or was just feeling fluid that day? 

And stupid because jeans, T-shirt’s, button shirts, sweaters and coats to name a few are inherently gender neutral  

And stupid ugly boxy coats are just stupid ugly boxy coats

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Singular "they" is actually quite old:  https://public.oed.com/blog/a-brief-history-of-singular-they/

I'm fine with it.  And I say this as a Quaker only one generation removed from a nuclear family that used "thee" and "thy" at home, in place of "you" which was originally second person plural or used as an honorific second person singular (the reason Quakers didn't use it.  My grandparents are gone, but I've still heard my dad and aunt say it to each other when they are together, which alas is infrequent.  I miss it!).  If we're comfortable using "you" for one person, we can get comfortable using "they" for one person.  

There are other options, e.g. zie/zir/zim, and if someone tells me that's what zie wants me to use, then that's what I will use, but I actually find singular they much easier.  

But I agree that the time since filming made Alyssa's grand pronouncement that the guest judge uses "they" quite didactic and condescending sounding.

But not as condescending as Michelle is on a regular basis.  And celebrating that "X" as if it were a great thing--I suspect that there are many people who would not like their gender referred to as X, even if that's what it is on a state form.  

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On 3/2/2019 at 5:48 AM, Aulty said:

Thats what they did in Sweden. They added 'hen' as a gender neutral pronoun ('han' and 'hon' are the male and female pronouns) a few years ago. The challenge for English is probably to get everyone to agree to one suitable word.

Sweden and other Scandinavian countries have traditionally been more supportive of gender fluidity.   For a time, Denmark became closely associated with "having the operation" probably because that's where Christine Jorgensen (one of the first transgender women to publicly announce she had undergone gender confirmation surgery) transitioned.

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I'm surprised that Michelle was so proud of referring to an X gender.  In my workplace, we recently started changing the computer system to accept an alternative to M or F for gender.  Being an old archaic computer system, before we could choose other options, for a while we could only choose X.  Our policy was to apologise to people who didn't identify as M or F and that we then had to enter X as their option, as it seems very rude but it was our only option until the system was updated.  X just seems very cold and generic.

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(edited)

Remember when they sent Sunny home for doing a beautiful yellow dress with just a blue brooch because it didn't meet the challenge? Well, with that in mind, why the hell is Irina still around? There was nothing unisex about her garment. It was feminine from head to toe with not one masculine aspect that would drag it towards the middle. High heels, tight black pants, a blouse. All feminine. Is the black or the oversized coat (with the feminine print) supposed to be gender neutral? 

Of the two at the bottom. Dimitry should have been aufed, but of course, they love him, so he's not going anywhere. But, if you're not sure what season it is if an outfit has one bare arm and one sleeve, then at what time of year can one expect to wear a trenchcoat that opens onto a naked back?

Edited by 7-Zark-7
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11 hours ago, 7-Zark-7 said:

But, if you're not sure what season it is if an outfit has one bare arm and one sleeve, then at what time of year can one expect to wear a trenchcoat that opens onto a naked back?

I do get your point, but at the same time most people wear clothes under their coats. So it would not open onto a naked back, but a shirt. 

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I guess that I didn't understand Isaac's dislike of the pinstripes that Sean used.  I know that men's suits have been made out of pinstripe material, but I have had suits and skirts made out of pinstripe.  I thought his outfit was clever and flattering.  Unlike the boxy coats that we got from other designers.  And, I agree with everyone's comments about Michelle's coat.  Non-binary doesn't mean non-attractive.  I think the judges didn't even know what the fashions should be-they applauded Michelle's interpretation of flowers as neutral, but rejected Sean's interpretation of pinstripes as neutral.  Well, and Anthony Ryan's design as brilliant, so there you go...

Oh, and Alyssa really bothered me when she announced the challenge.  It was like she was so proud of herself for wearing a traditional "menswear" look.  Please, women have been wearing clothes like that since the 1980s...

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On 3/6/2019 at 6:30 PM, seacliffsal said:

Oh, and Alyssa really bothered me when she announced the challenge.  It was like she was so proud of herself for wearing a traditional "menswear" look.  Please, women have been wearing clothes like that since the 1980s...

And the one she was wearing was not flattering on her.

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