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The Chefs/Cheftestants of Top Chef


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Good for Marcel!  This is great news.  I used to groan when I saw Marcel on the screen, back in his crazy Top Chef period, but I think he's growing up at last.  He's such a gifted chef and so smart that I think he could make a go of this if he worked hard.

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Weird news about John Tesar (Seattle). He opened Spoon in Dallas to rave reviews, right about the time his stint on TC aired. Then he opened Knife this past year, a premium steakhouse. Spoon was a seafood restaurant. Tesar has been feuding with Leslie Brenner, a food critic, over some oddball stuff, mostly her making a lot of presumptive commentary in her column.

Anyway, she wrote that Spoon would shut down after New Year's. And it did, in spite of him saying "it will be back in no time." I think she gave the reason that he had stretched himself too thin and partnered up with other people who weren't being responsible.

Tesar and others really don't like her. At all.

http://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/food/a-dallas-restaurant-rebellion-chefs-band-together-to-thwart-newspaper-critic/2014/12/02/d911ddd2-704a-11e4-893f-86bd390a3340_story.html

Then there’s Tesar, the former “Top Chef’ contestant who has practically made it his mission to attack Brenner on his Facebook and Twitter pages. Their relationship is beyond complicated. Tesar’s career stretches back to New York, where he worked with Anthony Bourdain (and starred in Bourdain’s bestseller “Kitchen Confidential” under the pseudonym “Jimmy Sears”). Brenner has ripped at least two of Bourdain’s books in print, including his “Les Halles Cookbook.” Bourdain has ripped Brenner right back.

Tesar, like Bourdain, has a brash style that he says is influenced by such comedians and shock jocks as Lenny Bruce and Howard Stern. Tesar gave his best Sternlike performance on July 16, when he received what he viewed as a lackluster three-star review of Knife, which has since landed on best-of lists by Eater Dallas and Esquire magazine.

Before even reading her review, Tesar took to social media, both publicly and privately to Brenner, to direct invective at the critic. (One private message he sent to Brenner via Facebook: “I am going to make sure you understand how crazy you are.”) It wasn’t the first time Tesar had tangled with her. He had previously bent her ear on the phone and ridiculed her online, calling her “probably one of the worst food critics I’ve ever seen in my entire life.”

Still, at the behest of friends, Tesar decided to delete his public knee-jerk condemnations of Brenner on the night of the review. His restraint didn’t last long.

“I woke up at 3:50 [a.m.] with a voice in my mind going, ‘You’re a chef, and you’re a man,’ ” Tesar says. “You need to do this for your soul. . . . I was like, ‘F--- you, Leslie Brenner. Your reviews are self-serving.’ I can’t even remember the quote.” Then he went back to bed.

When he woke up, the dining world in Dallas had changed. Tesar’s 22-word tweet had begun its viral sweep across the Internet. It was a schoolyard brawl, and food writers across the country gathered to watch, fascinated by this rare public spat. A chef was reviewing the reviewer, and it was brutal.

Tesar believed then and believes now that Brenner’s middling star rating, if not the Knife review itself, was payback. Payback for his public criticisms, for his private rants, maybe even for his relationship with Bourdain. (He even recently sent a scathing letter to the paper’s top editor, Mong.)

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Huh. I read up on that feud while it was going on. The odd thing is that it seemed to be helping his reputation (there seems to be a fairly widespread feeling that Brenner likes to punish Dallas restaurants for not being Los Angeles restaurants).

Shame about the restaurant. I hope he finds better partners.

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He was the one who kept putting his glasses on his forehead. He's had his share of problems, yes. I know that his daughter, who is grown (I think) won't have anything to do with him. I remember him talking about that with tears in his eyes.

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Thanks, cooksdelight.  He is the one I was thinking of. 

 

From the same season, I remember Carla (?), if that's the right name.  She was divorced from Frankie Pelligrino, Jr., co-owner of Rao's in NYC and Vegas.  She was from Italy and had a strong accent.  Something of a loudmouth who wanted that camera on her as often as possible.  I always wondered what happened to that marriage and what Carla is doing now.

Edited by Lura
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Carla cooked a JBF dinner at the Beard House last year, and the Voice just last week recommended her restaurant in South Beach (apparently the blog readers at the Voice weekend in South Beach).

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Kenny Gilbert (DC season) announced he's opening Gilbert's in Jacksonville, FL soon. I think this is his third restaurant (the other two closed, one after the other since his appearance on TC) and he also has a mail-order spice business.

Any update on this, cooksdelight?

ETA: Looks like he signed a lease in Fernandina Beach. The downtown location would have been easier for me but the article said he wants to open 2 more. So maybe?

Edited by MissMel
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Thanks, cooksdelight.  He is the one I was thinking of. 

 

From the same season, I remember Carla (?), if that's the right name.  She was divorced from Frankie Pelligrino, Jr., co-owner of Rao's in NYC and Vegas.  She was from Italy and had a strong accent.  Something of a loudmouth who wanted that camera on her as often as possible.  I always wondered what happened to that marriage and what Carla is doing now.

 

As mentioned above, she has a restaurant in Miami. I saw her a few weeks ago on Hubert Keller's PBS show. She was just the same!

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Kenny Gilbert is hiring for his new restaurant, if you know of anyone in this area of Florida who is looking for a job:

Chef Kenny Gilbert

Job Fair this Saturday 11-5pm at Gilbert's Underground Kitchen. 510 S. 8th Street Fernandina Beach fl 32034

Details:

1. Bring resume

2. Fill out Questionnaire that I will provide on site.

3. I will meet with you for formal interview.

4. I will hire on the spot at that time

5. Start date: tbd dependent upon the state approving application. 14-18 range

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I was wondering why the restaurant he staged the guest chef dinner at sounded so familiar (since I don't really keep up with molecular gastronomy diners in Dallas). That's where bacon Josh briefly worked as a pastry chef between stockwagons.

Edited by Julia
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This year's James Beard nominees have been announced. Some familiar names from TC alum, as well as TC judges at one time or another. Nick Elmi, last year's TC winner; Kevin Gillespie, TC Las Vegas; Edward Lee, TC Texas; this season's finalist, Gregory.

http://www.jamesbeard.org/blog/2015-restaurant-and-chef-award-semifinalists

cooksdelight, thanks for posting the info. Great to see Top Chef folks get recognition. Here are a few more Top Chef alum based on a quick scan of the James Beard semifinalist list:

 

Best Chef: South

-Justin Devillier, La Petite Grocery, New Orleans.  (Top Chef New Orleans)

 

Best Chef: Southwest

-John Tesar, Knife, Dallas.  (Top Chef Seattle)

 

Best New Restaurant

-Maude, Beverly Hills. Chef/owner is Curtis Stone. (Host of Top Chef Masters)

-Parachute, Chicago.  Chefs/owners are Beverly Kim (Top Chef Texas) and her husband Johnny Clark.  Here's a really interesting detailed Chicago Tribune article about their restaurant's financials.  

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I would be pleased if John Tesar won for Best Chef Southwest.  ;-)  

 

(Yes, he's not everyone's sweetheart but I think he's both talented and deserving as well as the antidote to all those Oh Play Pretty Play Nice Politically Correct Pearl Clutchers.  :-D )

 

Besides, I think it would be great for "Jimmy Sears" to poke folks in the eye from time to time.

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I am pissed, my meeting went long and by 12:30 when I went to by tickets for Melissa and Mei's dinner it was sold out!

 

I got my days mixed up, so I'm out of it, too, biakbiak.  Makes me so mad at myself!  I was really looking forward to it.  Maybe, since tickets sold so fast, they'll do another one, especially with Melissa living right here in SF.  I don't know anyone who's going, but if you do, I'd love to hear about it.  Another thought: There are bound to be at least a couple of cancellations along the way.  If you keep dialing their number, you might luck out on one.  I'll keep calling, too.  If I find a cancellation, I'll give it to you, but you'll have to accept messages here because it's my only way of getting in touch with you.  :)  Please let me know.

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In my crystal ball, Kevin will always be a food star simply because he treats the human race so well.  He also knows his way around the kitchen, which don't hurt.  He's done everything from the ground up himself, and he's one of the hardest working chefs around. 

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So I'm scrolling through the three figures channels on my cable system because there's nothing on, and I stumbled across a channel called RLTV, which is, who knew,  apparently lifestyle TV for geezers. This is my demographic now. But the point (and I do have one, off my lawn) is that they have a new cooking show where Florence Henderson cooks with her seventies TV friends and then Govind Armstrong shows them how to make a healthier version. I think this may be my new favorite thing on earth. 

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I really enjoyed this article and especially the pictures.  I don't know a lot about Atlanta's food scene.  Right now, I could gladly nosh on one of those cheeseburgers and definitely a Frozen Orange, reminiscent of a milkshake/slushie.  Mmmmmm!  I think we should all make a road trip to Atlanta to meet and hit up the restaurants.  I could also go for a friendly peck on the cheek from Kevin!

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I'm going to have to look up Jennifer Biesty because I can't remember who she is, and I know I saw Season 4.  I've seen every season, but sometimes the names become a blur after so much time has gone by.  The names are familiar, but the faces fade.

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Jen was the lesbian who's partner at the time was also on that season.

 

Also had a faux-hawk of almost Blaisian levels. And she was really well respected by the other chefs who were all surprised whe she got eliminated.

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I looked Jen up last night and vaguely remembered her, and I also read an interview with her.  I didn't notice what year the interview took place, but at that time, she was working here in San Francisco.  She talked about another woman who was on the show and had been eliminated, so that may have been her partner.  Thanks for your reply.  :)

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